Newbie guide: Beetle oil change.
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 12:18 am
This is all the info you'll need to do an oil change on your Beetle. I wrote it specifically for those who have never done it before.
CAUTION:
These are common mistakes, so I list them here, as things you should NOT DO!
1.) DO NOT jack it up.
Jacking up the car tilts the sump, making it impossible for the old oil to drain out.
2.) DO NOT change the oil when the car is too cold.
Especially during winter. Cold oil does not flow, so it won't drain.
If you are doing this first thing in the morning. Take your car for a run around the block, literally just enough to warm the engine up.
3.) DO NOT change the oil when the car is too hot.
Hot oil will burn you, trust me, you don't want to get burnt by hot oil.
Remember this: Oil sticks to you. Hot oil, sticks to you while taking off your skin.
An easy check to prevent this, is to take out the dipstick. If it is warm but comfortable to hold you are in a good spot. If it's not comfortable to hold, give the engine time to cool down until it is.
4.) Top up with what you used last time.
DO NOT top up with a brand or type of oil other then the brand and type of your last oil change. You are inviting trouble if you do.
A WORD ON OIL:
I'll skip all the technical jargon and break it down into human speak. All you need are the details in the short version. The long version is there for those who want to know more, or need to know why the short version states what it does.
The short version:
In South Africa, the oil you want to get is Shell Synthetic 10w40.
WARNING: Stay away from 20w50.
WARNING: Do not use NON-synthetic oil, after having used synthetic oil.
The long version: (You can safely skip this)
WARNING: Stay away from 20w50.
You stand a good chance to loose your engine if you do use 20w50. It is simply to thick at both low and high temperatures. This means your engine does not get warmed up or cooled properly, leading to a dead engine in almost no time at all. 20w50 is a common oil for water cooled engines in South Africa. Ignorance on the part of owners and mechanics alike, has led to this being used in air-cooled engines.
WARNING: Do not use non-synthetic oil, after having used synthetic oil.
Going back to non-synthetic oil, after having used synthetic, is an excellent way to kill your engine. Synthetic oil has detergents in it that clean gunk out of the parts that need oil. Using non-synthetic oil afterwards is like running sand through your wet, just-washed hands. The sand just sticks to your hands. In an engine, this is a recipe for death.
Brand of oil:
As far as brand of oil is concerned, the debates have been far and wide. General consensus from my research is that, at least in South Africa, you'd do better if you buy Shell.
Now that we have that out of the way, let's get to what you'll need.
TOOLS:
Time:
Yes, time is a tool. Budget for around 2 hours if this is your first attempt.
Patience and the will to do the job right:
Without patience, you should rather not do this. Without will, you'll never get to do it, so why bother reading this in the first place.
Knowledge:
Reading this will provide you the knowledge you need. Print it out and take it with you as a reminder, when you tackle the job. But read the whole damn thing before attempting to do the job.
Space:
a FLAT area to park your car and work in.
Wrenches:
A 10mm box closed wrench OR a 10mm socket with socket wrench. An adjustable wrench.
You won't need the adjustable wrench if you have an older type Beetle, that does not have an oil draining nut on the sump cover.
Screw driver:
A flat one.
A Flat container:
One that easily fits under your car, with space enough to work on the sump cover. It has to be capable of holding at least 2 litres of liquid. 3 litres would be better. Empty Ice-cream containers do the trick for me.
A funnel:
If you can, get the type with a flexible end and a built in strainer. If yours does not have a built in strainer, you'll have to get a separate strainer. DON'T USE YOUR WIFE/GIRLFRIEND's TEA STRAINER. The chopped off head of a plastic 2 litre Coke bottle, can be substituted for a funnel, but will be uncomfortable to work with.
Overalls OR a set of old clothes:
As a married man I can not stress this point enough. It's no use if your engine lasts but your marriage goes boom because your wife gets fed up with finding your oily clothes amongst the non-oiled washing.
A bottle, to keep the old oil in:
Capable of holding at least 2 litres, 3 would be better. Don't just throw the old oil away. It can and has to be recycled. Especially with the oil price as high as it is today. All you have to do is take it to you nearest auto repair centre and ask them to add it to their bin of used oil. From there it will be picked up and recycled. Old car oil also has a couple of DIY uses around the house. So you have no excuse for throwing it away.
5 Litres of new Oil:
For the actual oil change you'll only need about 2.5 Litres.
The rest is there for you to put into smaller containers, that you can keep in your car for emergencies and topping up. Make sure the containers you use do not leak.
200 ml of Paraffin:
You'll use this to clean the oil filter, sump cover, your tools and your hands. You can also clean the filter, sump cover and tools in petrol, but paraffin is one hell of a lot cheaper and works just as well.
An old towel or something similar:
To place under the container that will catch the oil. This serves two purposes. The first being to prevent oil drops staining your garage floor. The second being a layer between you and the cold floor.
A CLEAN, open mouthed container:
Shaped like a cup, capable of holding 0.5 to 1 litre.
You'll need this to be a comfortable container to hold, as you will decant the new oil into this container before putting it in the engine. The bottom end of a 2 litre Coke bottle works well. Just make damn sure it is clean.
A basin/bucket/container for the paraffin.
For washing the filter, sump cover, tools and your hands.
A basin/bucket/container with warm soapy water in it:
For washing yourself. Yes you'll have to clean the paraffin off somehow.
DON'T DO IT INSIDE THE HOUSE.
You'll cause endless hassle for yourself if you do.
Cloth:
A clean one and a not so clean one.
A plastic bag:
To line the old oil catcher for ease of cleaning.
Optional tools:
An LED Headlight:
This is the one tool I can not live without. I've not worked on my Beetle without it strapped to my head and shining clear, white light where ever I happen to look.
A nail brush.
For cleaning your nails and fingers.
SPARES:
Oil gasket kit:
They are still easily obtainable from your local Auto shop. You'll get two gaskets in a set. YOU WILL NEED BOTH. If at all possible, buy two sets, so you'll have a spare for emergencies. Don't throw away your old set, as they can help you if your or a friend are ever in a tight spot.
New oil filter: (just in case the old one is busted)
Note, that the stock oil filter on an air-air-cooled engine can not be replaced by the oil filter of most cars out there. Make sure you get the right thing. The average oil filters you get looks like a big tin can. What you want, looks like an upside down tea strainer with a flat metal plate that has 6 holes in it. Your local Auto Spares shop will be able to point you in the right direction.
AND NOW WE GET TO DOING THE JOB.
1.) Make sure you have everything for the job.
You should do this the day before you do your oil change. You do not want to get half way through draining the old oil, only to realize you don't have a replacement gasket set.
2.) Get ready to do the job.
Put on you overalls or old clothes.
Go to your car and place all your equipment where you can find them, within easy reach.
This is a matter of personal taste, but better organization will lead to less time spent and next to nothing to clean up afterwards. I arrange my tools down the sides. Never behind me as getting up and tripping over your own tools is never a pleasant experience.
3.) Relax and breathe.
Seat yourself behind the engine.
Take a look around you.
See all your tools and spares.
Visualize what you are about to do.
YES! Talking to your car and explaining to it what you are about to do, is COMPLETELY ACCEPTABLE! You don't have to, but Beetles seem to appreciate good bedside manner from their mechanics.
If you have opted to use an LED headlamp. Now is a good time to slap it on and switch it on.
4.) Getting the old oil out.
Spread the towel under the engine, far enough in so that you plenty of towel under the sump.
Grab your flat container and line it with a plastic bag.
Get down on the ground. If you are right-handed, lie on your right hand side. If you are left-handed, lie on your left hand side. Make sure that your adjustable wrench, 10mm closed box wrench OR 10mm socket with socket wrench and flat container are in front of you and easily reachable.
Locate the sump cover, it is the nice round circle in the middle of the sump.
Inspect it, take note of the 6 nuts on the outer rim of the sump cover.
On early Beetles, you'll only see those 6 nuts. On later Beetles, you'll also find a single big nut in the centre of the sump cover.
That single big nut is for draining the oil without removing the entire cover. It makes for a cleaner job, but if you don't have that nut, don't despair. I don't have it on my Beetle and I walk away with a clean garage floor anyway.
Place the flat container with plastic lining directly under the sump cover.
Now we get to draining the old oil out.
If you have that big nut in the centre of the sump cover.
Get hold of your adjustable wrench. Place it over the nut and adjust it so that it fits snugly. Now gently remove the nut.
As you remove it, oil will begin to flow out of the sump. Get the nut out completely. If you loose your hold on it and it drops into the flat container, don't fret, you can fish it out later.
If you don't have that big nut.
Grab your 10mm wrench or 10mm socket and socket wrench.
Loosen the 6 nuts in opposing order.
JUST LOOSEN THEM DO NOT TAKE THEM OFF COMPLETELY.
Do this slowly and with patience, in opposing order. NOT CLOCK OR ANTI-CLOCK WISE. OPPOSING, as in the nut opposite not the nut next too.
At some point the sump cover will get loose enough for the oil to start dripping out. Your hands will get dirty, but if you placed the flat container correctly, you won't spill any oil on the floor. The towel will catch any stray drops.
Continue to loosen the nuts until the oil flows freely.
Now that the oil is flowing out, you can get out from under your Beetle.
Wash most of the oil on your hands off in that bucket of warm soapy water and go get yourself a cup of coffee/tea.
Leave your Beetle to do it's thing for about 15 to 20 minutes.
Take this time to review what you are going to do next.
5.) Removing the sump cover and filter.
So, you've been draining the oil out and it's been about 15 to 20 minutes since it started flowing.
Put down your empty cup of tea/coffee and thank whoever made it for you. If you made it yourself, I hope you cleaned yourself enough, not to leave black marks all over your kitchen.
Get back to your Beetle.
Get on your knees and check the flow of oil. It should now be dripping slowly, so it's time to take off the sump cover.
Get down on your left/right side again, armed with your 10mm wrench or socket.
Completely remove the 6 nuts, loosening each one and in opposing order.
Once the nut are out you can get hold of the sump cover and remove it. For the most part it will come down to meet you, if it doesn't, you might have to use the flat screw driver in order to get it down. Be careful though, as the oil filter is directly above the sump cover.
If the oil filter does not join the sump cover on the way down, fish it out of the engine with your fingers. Make sure both the old gaskets come out along with the filter and sump cover.
NOTE: Some mechanics have been known to be lazy/stupid/ignorant and install only one gasket. If you find only one, make sure there isn't a gasket still stuck to the sump.
Get out from under the car, bringing the sump cover, filter and old gaskets with you.
Find your paraffin, if you haven't pored it into a bucket, do it now.
Grab the sump cover, place it in the paraffin and clean it. Make sure you get any gunk off of it. Once it's clean place it somewhere safe and clean to dry.
Grab the oil filter. Hold it on the plate and slosh it around in the paraffin, until it's clean and shiny. Once it's clean, check it for damage.
If it's damaged, get out your new oil filter and chuck the old one in the bin.
If the old one isn't damaged, smile and thank your Beetle for such good behaviour.
If you are sticking with your old oil filter. Place it somewhere safe and clean to dry.
By this time, pretty much all the old oil should have dripped out of your engine. Get your funnel and the bottle you have reserved for storing your old oil. Slowly and carefully get the flat container out from under the engine.
Decant the old oil into the bottle, using your funnel to make life easier. If your funnel does not have a strainer in it, you'll have to make do with what you can find to use in stead. Once you have decanted all the old oil into the bottle, check the strainer for metal filings.
If there are metal filings, know that you are going to need an engine overhaul soon. If the old oil has obvious white streaks in it, you should be worried, very worried.
THIS IS INCREDIBLY BAD, get your car to a professional air-cooled VW mechanic. One that loves his work and the cars he works on.
The old oil should be black and smooth to the touch. Clean your hands and dip your fingers in the old oil. Rub your fingers together, if it feels gritty get your engine to a professional as soon as humanly possible.
Assuming that all is well, and even if it isn't. It's time to clean the funnel.
Use the paraffin and the not so clean cloth to get all the old oil out of it. Once it's clean, rinse it off in clean, warm water. Leave it in a safe, clean place to dry.
6.) Put the oil filter and sump cover back.
Get your gasket set ready.
Take out one gasket and place it under the oil filter. Make sure to line up the holes.
Place the other gasket on top of the oil filter, again lining up the holes.
Get your sump cover and place it underneath all of that, lining up the holes again.
Take all of this and place it back on to the sump, with the filter going into the engine.
Get one of your 6 nuts and fasten it by hand, so that it holds the sump cover, filter and gaskets in place. DO NOT TIGHTEN IT YET!
Get your other 5 nuts and fasten them by hand, again in opposing order.
Grab your 10mm wrench or socket and proceed to tighten the nuts, still going in opposing order. Make sure to get the nuts nice and tight, but take care not to strip the nuts, or bolts they go on to.
If you have an oil draining bolt in your sump cover, now is the time to put it back.
Get out from under the car.
7.) Filling up with the good stuff.
If you haven't done it yet, pop the hood. Make sure your hands are clean. Locate the oil filler cap and the dip stick.
Get hold of your clean container, the one that is easy to hold and cup-shaped.
Bring your funnel closer, make sure it has completely dried. You don't want to get any water in your engine.
Remove the oil cap and place it somewhere clean and safe.
Place you funnel in the hole left by the oil cap.
Take out the dip stick, clean it and put it back again.
Bring the 5l can of new oil closer. Open it and decant some of it into your clean container. Now empty the clean container into the funnel, make sure you are using the strainer again, even new oil can have unwanted objects floating around.
Get a litre of oil down that pipe.
Check under the engine to make sure the oil isn't simply running straight through a badly fastened sump cover.
Get up and stretch for 2 to 3 minutes, this elevates your muscles and allows the oil time to get to the sump.
Get down again, looking under the engine and make sure nothing is dripping out.
Now you have to start working slower. You don't want to over fill your Beetle as it's a great way to blow seals. Blowing seals is BAD! So, take out the dip stick and check the level. Clean it and put it back again.
Now you start filling in 250-500ml batches. Repeatedly taking out the dip stick to check the oil level.
After every batch you get down the pipe, allow the oil 2 to 3 minutes to get to the sump. Then check the dip stick for the oil level again, clean it, and put it back again.
Do this until you are almost at the FULL mark on the dipstick. You have to do this slowly, and carefully, as over filling can not easily be undone.
You'll end up using approximately 2.5 litres of oil. Take what's left over and store it. It's a good idea to take a clean 500ml bottle filled with your new oil and keep it in your Beetle for emergencies.
Once your Beetle is all filled up, put the oil cap back and make sure the dip stick is back in.
Double check that no oil is dripping out of the sump cover. If there is, take the time to tighten those nuts.
Now start your Beetle and make sure all is fine. Make sure all tools are well away from your engine before doing this.
8.) Clean up.
Use the paraffin to clean your tools, equipment and hands.
Pack your tools away.
Go clean yourself, with the clean cloth, soap and water.
There is a product for sale here in SA, called CHEMICO. It comes in a pink container. If you can get some it's great for getting oil off your skin. Use sparingly though, as it does burn slightly.
SMILE, you've just done an oil change.
CAUTION:
These are common mistakes, so I list them here, as things you should NOT DO!
1.) DO NOT jack it up.
Jacking up the car tilts the sump, making it impossible for the old oil to drain out.
2.) DO NOT change the oil when the car is too cold.
Especially during winter. Cold oil does not flow, so it won't drain.
If you are doing this first thing in the morning. Take your car for a run around the block, literally just enough to warm the engine up.
3.) DO NOT change the oil when the car is too hot.
Hot oil will burn you, trust me, you don't want to get burnt by hot oil.
Remember this: Oil sticks to you. Hot oil, sticks to you while taking off your skin.
An easy check to prevent this, is to take out the dipstick. If it is warm but comfortable to hold you are in a good spot. If it's not comfortable to hold, give the engine time to cool down until it is.
4.) Top up with what you used last time.
DO NOT top up with a brand or type of oil other then the brand and type of your last oil change. You are inviting trouble if you do.
A WORD ON OIL:
I'll skip all the technical jargon and break it down into human speak. All you need are the details in the short version. The long version is there for those who want to know more, or need to know why the short version states what it does.
The short version:
In South Africa, the oil you want to get is Shell Synthetic 10w40.
WARNING: Stay away from 20w50.
WARNING: Do not use NON-synthetic oil, after having used synthetic oil.
The long version: (You can safely skip this)
WARNING: Stay away from 20w50.
You stand a good chance to loose your engine if you do use 20w50. It is simply to thick at both low and high temperatures. This means your engine does not get warmed up or cooled properly, leading to a dead engine in almost no time at all. 20w50 is a common oil for water cooled engines in South Africa. Ignorance on the part of owners and mechanics alike, has led to this being used in air-cooled engines.
WARNING: Do not use non-synthetic oil, after having used synthetic oil.
Going back to non-synthetic oil, after having used synthetic, is an excellent way to kill your engine. Synthetic oil has detergents in it that clean gunk out of the parts that need oil. Using non-synthetic oil afterwards is like running sand through your wet, just-washed hands. The sand just sticks to your hands. In an engine, this is a recipe for death.
Brand of oil:
As far as brand of oil is concerned, the debates have been far and wide. General consensus from my research is that, at least in South Africa, you'd do better if you buy Shell.
Now that we have that out of the way, let's get to what you'll need.
TOOLS:
Time:
Yes, time is a tool. Budget for around 2 hours if this is your first attempt.
Patience and the will to do the job right:
Without patience, you should rather not do this. Without will, you'll never get to do it, so why bother reading this in the first place.
Knowledge:
Reading this will provide you the knowledge you need. Print it out and take it with you as a reminder, when you tackle the job. But read the whole damn thing before attempting to do the job.
Space:
a FLAT area to park your car and work in.
Wrenches:
A 10mm box closed wrench OR a 10mm socket with socket wrench. An adjustable wrench.
You won't need the adjustable wrench if you have an older type Beetle, that does not have an oil draining nut on the sump cover.
Screw driver:
A flat one.
A Flat container:
One that easily fits under your car, with space enough to work on the sump cover. It has to be capable of holding at least 2 litres of liquid. 3 litres would be better. Empty Ice-cream containers do the trick for me.
A funnel:
If you can, get the type with a flexible end and a built in strainer. If yours does not have a built in strainer, you'll have to get a separate strainer. DON'T USE YOUR WIFE/GIRLFRIEND's TEA STRAINER. The chopped off head of a plastic 2 litre Coke bottle, can be substituted for a funnel, but will be uncomfortable to work with.
Overalls OR a set of old clothes:
As a married man I can not stress this point enough. It's no use if your engine lasts but your marriage goes boom because your wife gets fed up with finding your oily clothes amongst the non-oiled washing.
A bottle, to keep the old oil in:
Capable of holding at least 2 litres, 3 would be better. Don't just throw the old oil away. It can and has to be recycled. Especially with the oil price as high as it is today. All you have to do is take it to you nearest auto repair centre and ask them to add it to their bin of used oil. From there it will be picked up and recycled. Old car oil also has a couple of DIY uses around the house. So you have no excuse for throwing it away.
5 Litres of new Oil:
For the actual oil change you'll only need about 2.5 Litres.
The rest is there for you to put into smaller containers, that you can keep in your car for emergencies and topping up. Make sure the containers you use do not leak.
200 ml of Paraffin:
You'll use this to clean the oil filter, sump cover, your tools and your hands. You can also clean the filter, sump cover and tools in petrol, but paraffin is one hell of a lot cheaper and works just as well.
An old towel or something similar:
To place under the container that will catch the oil. This serves two purposes. The first being to prevent oil drops staining your garage floor. The second being a layer between you and the cold floor.
A CLEAN, open mouthed container:
Shaped like a cup, capable of holding 0.5 to 1 litre.
You'll need this to be a comfortable container to hold, as you will decant the new oil into this container before putting it in the engine. The bottom end of a 2 litre Coke bottle works well. Just make damn sure it is clean.
A basin/bucket/container for the paraffin.
For washing the filter, sump cover, tools and your hands.
A basin/bucket/container with warm soapy water in it:
For washing yourself. Yes you'll have to clean the paraffin off somehow.
DON'T DO IT INSIDE THE HOUSE.
You'll cause endless hassle for yourself if you do.
Cloth:
A clean one and a not so clean one.
A plastic bag:
To line the old oil catcher for ease of cleaning.
Optional tools:
An LED Headlight:
This is the one tool I can not live without. I've not worked on my Beetle without it strapped to my head and shining clear, white light where ever I happen to look.
A nail brush.
For cleaning your nails and fingers.
SPARES:
Oil gasket kit:
They are still easily obtainable from your local Auto shop. You'll get two gaskets in a set. YOU WILL NEED BOTH. If at all possible, buy two sets, so you'll have a spare for emergencies. Don't throw away your old set, as they can help you if your or a friend are ever in a tight spot.
New oil filter: (just in case the old one is busted)
Note, that the stock oil filter on an air-air-cooled engine can not be replaced by the oil filter of most cars out there. Make sure you get the right thing. The average oil filters you get looks like a big tin can. What you want, looks like an upside down tea strainer with a flat metal plate that has 6 holes in it. Your local Auto Spares shop will be able to point you in the right direction.
AND NOW WE GET TO DOING THE JOB.
1.) Make sure you have everything for the job.
You should do this the day before you do your oil change. You do not want to get half way through draining the old oil, only to realize you don't have a replacement gasket set.
2.) Get ready to do the job.
Put on you overalls or old clothes.
Go to your car and place all your equipment where you can find them, within easy reach.
This is a matter of personal taste, but better organization will lead to less time spent and next to nothing to clean up afterwards. I arrange my tools down the sides. Never behind me as getting up and tripping over your own tools is never a pleasant experience.
3.) Relax and breathe.
Seat yourself behind the engine.
Take a look around you.
See all your tools and spares.
Visualize what you are about to do.
YES! Talking to your car and explaining to it what you are about to do, is COMPLETELY ACCEPTABLE! You don't have to, but Beetles seem to appreciate good bedside manner from their mechanics.
If you have opted to use an LED headlamp. Now is a good time to slap it on and switch it on.
4.) Getting the old oil out.
Spread the towel under the engine, far enough in so that you plenty of towel under the sump.
Grab your flat container and line it with a plastic bag.
Get down on the ground. If you are right-handed, lie on your right hand side. If you are left-handed, lie on your left hand side. Make sure that your adjustable wrench, 10mm closed box wrench OR 10mm socket with socket wrench and flat container are in front of you and easily reachable.
Locate the sump cover, it is the nice round circle in the middle of the sump.
Inspect it, take note of the 6 nuts on the outer rim of the sump cover.
On early Beetles, you'll only see those 6 nuts. On later Beetles, you'll also find a single big nut in the centre of the sump cover.
That single big nut is for draining the oil without removing the entire cover. It makes for a cleaner job, but if you don't have that nut, don't despair. I don't have it on my Beetle and I walk away with a clean garage floor anyway.
Place the flat container with plastic lining directly under the sump cover.
Now we get to draining the old oil out.
If you have that big nut in the centre of the sump cover.
Get hold of your adjustable wrench. Place it over the nut and adjust it so that it fits snugly. Now gently remove the nut.
As you remove it, oil will begin to flow out of the sump. Get the nut out completely. If you loose your hold on it and it drops into the flat container, don't fret, you can fish it out later.
If you don't have that big nut.
Grab your 10mm wrench or 10mm socket and socket wrench.
Loosen the 6 nuts in opposing order.
JUST LOOSEN THEM DO NOT TAKE THEM OFF COMPLETELY.
Do this slowly and with patience, in opposing order. NOT CLOCK OR ANTI-CLOCK WISE. OPPOSING, as in the nut opposite not the nut next too.
At some point the sump cover will get loose enough for the oil to start dripping out. Your hands will get dirty, but if you placed the flat container correctly, you won't spill any oil on the floor. The towel will catch any stray drops.
Continue to loosen the nuts until the oil flows freely.
Now that the oil is flowing out, you can get out from under your Beetle.
Wash most of the oil on your hands off in that bucket of warm soapy water and go get yourself a cup of coffee/tea.
Leave your Beetle to do it's thing for about 15 to 20 minutes.
Take this time to review what you are going to do next.
5.) Removing the sump cover and filter.
So, you've been draining the oil out and it's been about 15 to 20 minutes since it started flowing.
Put down your empty cup of tea/coffee and thank whoever made it for you. If you made it yourself, I hope you cleaned yourself enough, not to leave black marks all over your kitchen.
Get back to your Beetle.
Get on your knees and check the flow of oil. It should now be dripping slowly, so it's time to take off the sump cover.
Get down on your left/right side again, armed with your 10mm wrench or socket.
Completely remove the 6 nuts, loosening each one and in opposing order.
Once the nut are out you can get hold of the sump cover and remove it. For the most part it will come down to meet you, if it doesn't, you might have to use the flat screw driver in order to get it down. Be careful though, as the oil filter is directly above the sump cover.
If the oil filter does not join the sump cover on the way down, fish it out of the engine with your fingers. Make sure both the old gaskets come out along with the filter and sump cover.
NOTE: Some mechanics have been known to be lazy/stupid/ignorant and install only one gasket. If you find only one, make sure there isn't a gasket still stuck to the sump.
Get out from under the car, bringing the sump cover, filter and old gaskets with you.
Find your paraffin, if you haven't pored it into a bucket, do it now.
Grab the sump cover, place it in the paraffin and clean it. Make sure you get any gunk off of it. Once it's clean place it somewhere safe and clean to dry.
Grab the oil filter. Hold it on the plate and slosh it around in the paraffin, until it's clean and shiny. Once it's clean, check it for damage.
If it's damaged, get out your new oil filter and chuck the old one in the bin.
If the old one isn't damaged, smile and thank your Beetle for such good behaviour.
If you are sticking with your old oil filter. Place it somewhere safe and clean to dry.
By this time, pretty much all the old oil should have dripped out of your engine. Get your funnel and the bottle you have reserved for storing your old oil. Slowly and carefully get the flat container out from under the engine.
Decant the old oil into the bottle, using your funnel to make life easier. If your funnel does not have a strainer in it, you'll have to make do with what you can find to use in stead. Once you have decanted all the old oil into the bottle, check the strainer for metal filings.
If there are metal filings, know that you are going to need an engine overhaul soon. If the old oil has obvious white streaks in it, you should be worried, very worried.
THIS IS INCREDIBLY BAD, get your car to a professional air-cooled VW mechanic. One that loves his work and the cars he works on.
The old oil should be black and smooth to the touch. Clean your hands and dip your fingers in the old oil. Rub your fingers together, if it feels gritty get your engine to a professional as soon as humanly possible.
Assuming that all is well, and even if it isn't. It's time to clean the funnel.
Use the paraffin and the not so clean cloth to get all the old oil out of it. Once it's clean, rinse it off in clean, warm water. Leave it in a safe, clean place to dry.
6.) Put the oil filter and sump cover back.
Get your gasket set ready.
Take out one gasket and place it under the oil filter. Make sure to line up the holes.
Place the other gasket on top of the oil filter, again lining up the holes.
Get your sump cover and place it underneath all of that, lining up the holes again.
Take all of this and place it back on to the sump, with the filter going into the engine.
Get one of your 6 nuts and fasten it by hand, so that it holds the sump cover, filter and gaskets in place. DO NOT TIGHTEN IT YET!
Get your other 5 nuts and fasten them by hand, again in opposing order.
Grab your 10mm wrench or socket and proceed to tighten the nuts, still going in opposing order. Make sure to get the nuts nice and tight, but take care not to strip the nuts, or bolts they go on to.
If you have an oil draining bolt in your sump cover, now is the time to put it back.
Get out from under the car.
7.) Filling up with the good stuff.
If you haven't done it yet, pop the hood. Make sure your hands are clean. Locate the oil filler cap and the dip stick.
Get hold of your clean container, the one that is easy to hold and cup-shaped.
Bring your funnel closer, make sure it has completely dried. You don't want to get any water in your engine.
Remove the oil cap and place it somewhere clean and safe.
Place you funnel in the hole left by the oil cap.
Take out the dip stick, clean it and put it back again.
Bring the 5l can of new oil closer. Open it and decant some of it into your clean container. Now empty the clean container into the funnel, make sure you are using the strainer again, even new oil can have unwanted objects floating around.
Get a litre of oil down that pipe.
Check under the engine to make sure the oil isn't simply running straight through a badly fastened sump cover.
Get up and stretch for 2 to 3 minutes, this elevates your muscles and allows the oil time to get to the sump.
Get down again, looking under the engine and make sure nothing is dripping out.
Now you have to start working slower. You don't want to over fill your Beetle as it's a great way to blow seals. Blowing seals is BAD! So, take out the dip stick and check the level. Clean it and put it back again.
Now you start filling in 250-500ml batches. Repeatedly taking out the dip stick to check the oil level.
After every batch you get down the pipe, allow the oil 2 to 3 minutes to get to the sump. Then check the dip stick for the oil level again, clean it, and put it back again.
Do this until you are almost at the FULL mark on the dipstick. You have to do this slowly, and carefully, as over filling can not easily be undone.
You'll end up using approximately 2.5 litres of oil. Take what's left over and store it. It's a good idea to take a clean 500ml bottle filled with your new oil and keep it in your Beetle for emergencies.
Once your Beetle is all filled up, put the oil cap back and make sure the dip stick is back in.
Double check that no oil is dripping out of the sump cover. If there is, take the time to tighten those nuts.
Now start your Beetle and make sure all is fine. Make sure all tools are well away from your engine before doing this.
8.) Clean up.
Use the paraffin to clean your tools, equipment and hands.
Pack your tools away.
Go clean yourself, with the clean cloth, soap and water.
There is a product for sale here in SA, called CHEMICO. It comes in a pink container. If you can get some it's great for getting oil off your skin. Use sparingly though, as it does burn slightly.
SMILE, you've just done an oil change.