Power out puts of 1776 and 1915 motors?

forcecooled · Post by **forcecooled** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 12:59 am

As you may have seen from some of my comments on the other subjects, we are planning to build a trick motor for our type 1 I have access to most of the overseas stuff, but the array is totally amazing!!. I don't want to make the mistake of building an expensive motor that is still slack or a monster that is not a joy to drive. Ideally I would like the following -maybe. be quicker -up to 100 (mph) than the pesky golfs and corsas that run around sounding like they have holes drilled into thier air boxes. want about 120 hp at about 7000 rpm, (is that enough ?) lots of reliability and capable of long distance runs without overheating, and so on. I can see that a lot of you have the T shirt for building quick engines, so would appreciate some basic pointers as to what is required to get us on the right track.
Cheers,
Bill

forcecooled · Post by **forcecooled** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 1:01 am

Hmmmm- Blow off Golfs and corsas? ----- are we dreaming----? Cant wait!

forcecooled · Post by **forcecooled** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 1:04 am

Whats with the "oil stain" under my sign in handle? did the system put it there automatically?

Post by **Tony Z** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 1:14 am

forcecooled wrote:Whats with the "oil stain" under my sign in handle? did the system put it there automatically?

build up a few more posts and you will be an O ring or some other name... look at me, I am a monkeys ass

forcecooled · Post by **forcecooled** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 1:26 am

OK I have the picture now---- great fun!

Post by **Tony Z** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 1:26 am

it all boils down to money. Also the availability of parts.
a very well prepared 1600 will surprise most cars on the roads.

do you have acces to 44IDFs or are you limited to 36s or 40s????

I am bringing in parts for a 2007cc engine for my fathers retirement. An engine like that can be built with anywhere from 80hp to 180hp, depending on application, combo and cash. This one will end up with around 100hp and a ton of torque. He requested a beach buggy with: "f##k off big rear wheels", I know my father well enough to build him exactly what he want, without him knowing it.
I know what I want, so for that reason, my 2332 will hopefully have around 160hp or more

Remember, revs decrease engine life. as do many other things.

120 hp, fairly cheaply...
1915cc, 44IDFs, 120 cam, or VZ30 or web 121/125 (for a monster)
9:1 CR
counterwieghted crank
cro-mo push rods
rebuild or new conrods
welded fan
good dizzy (WBX or 009)
Stage 1 pressure plate
lightened flywheel
if possible 044 heads, but new stock heads will work (a fair amount of work needed to get them right)
extrernal filter or CB pump and filter combo
engine balancing job

that will get you there (and scare the pants off any of your friends), but it will prob cost near to 15 or 20 grand
can be done for less, but not very reliably

Post by **Tony Z** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 1:29 am

Oh yes, defore you go about strapping 120hp into a bug, make sure the suspesnion and brakes can handle it. The average bugs 30 year old shocks and dieing drums really wont let you live very long

This is not a joke... SAFETY FIRST

Post by **Tony Z** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 1:35 am

I found this a while ago written by one of the US drag boys, very short and very simple

I think one thing that's VERY important to note is that cam "size" depends on the engine.

For example, a 296 duration cam is BIG for a 1600 with stock heads, and SMALL for a 2332 with HUGE heads.

Think of the engine as an air pump. Larger engines pump more air, and the ports NEED the extra duration to move that much air. A 296 cam on a 2332 works off idle-6000, on a 1914 it's from 2K-7K, on a 1600 it's 2500-8K.

On a related note, larger ports and vents "cover up" reversion, which is a problem with more duration and overlap. So, many times an engine with drivability problems can be "fixed" by putting BIGGER heads and carbs on it! (be careful here). The added volume in the ports smoothes things out on the low end.

forcecooled · Post by **forcecooled** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 11:26 am

Thanks for the info. We are also safety first here. Had lots of fun with quick Gordinis , R10's and suchlike, so we know about light front ends and swing axle rear's . Had an okrasa kit on my 55 oval and a judson , carb and exhaust setup on my 65 1200. We have done the front end with adjustable H beam and castor compensators on this '70 one already, as well as all the rear bushings I have a front disk kit for it. Havent put that on because I have never found 100pcd wheels that I like. I like a bit of authenticity. The local available wheels are just not beetle, and I wont bolt on anything that looks like front wheel drive or out of a tsw specials ad. Busy looking at Eagle alloys In the states. they make a knockout VW range, but the pcds are for the US bugs or wide 5 only. have asked them if they will do me a set with 100 x 4 pcd. No reply yet. Thanks for all your input so far- much appreciated.
Bill

Post by **Tony Z** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 1:24 pm

anytime

Post by **IMPI** » Mon Feb 20, 2006 8:39 pm

Cheap when comparing to import parts
Type 4, turbo, and homebuilt fan conversion + easy 140 kw
I have seen more as well
Armand

vader · Post by **vader** » Tue Feb 21, 2006 1:12 pm

Why do you not look at a T4, the block is just about bullet proof and the rest should be ruffly the same price as a T1?