Beetle - Heater Box Flap

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No More Landy
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Beetle - Heater Box Flap

Post by No More Landy »

Hi Guys

I have slight seepage of heat into the the cab when the flaps are closed.

Is there supposed to be a foam type seal glued to the flap for a complete seal off ?

Couldn't find any diagrams on google.


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Re: Beetle - Heater Box Flap

Post by retrovan »

Hi,

You will find that most have removed the heater pipes as you near always land up with fumes in the car.

As far as I know there is no rubber seal on the flaps, its just a disk that fills the pipe and stops the air.

If every thing is new and there is no oil drip on the heat exchanger you may be OK.

Have blocked off all my heater pipes and wear a jacket and woolly socks... :wink:

Good luck with the project.

By the way did you get the motor in after all?

Herman
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Re: Beetle - Heater Box Flap

Post by No More Landy »

Yes. Had to center the clutch a few times as I think I was bumping the splines off center on the clutch disk.
Eventually got it in and the engine is running smooth as a whistle.
Just have slight heat on my feet, but no more fumes. All the oil that seeped into the boxes when push rod seals were leaking has burned off with the help of a small flame torch I used to speed the process and the exhaust temp did the rest at full taps on the highway.
Car filled with oil smoke which was quite exciting for a few minutes.
Also properly sealed the connection to the exhaust pipe with new seal and plenty gun gum so no more exhaust fumes getting into the air side of the heater box.
I am able to close the vent flaps at my feet which help but think I may try glue some thin foam onto the flap if I can get inside there.

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Re: Beetle - Heater Box Flap

Post by Dawie »

Had a look at a type 1 heat exchanger's valve. No foam seal there. It is a clever design where the closing plate can swivel to provide good contact. The outlet pipe slightly protrudes into heat exchanger to provide a perfect sealing area. With lever pulled close, it was not easy to blow through there. The return spring should be there and cable adjusted to ensure valve closes fully.

Having grown up with acvw's in the family, i have always enjoyed their heaters. I prefer to rather fix an oil or exhaust leak. During cold wet Cape winters i try to always keep the heater open fully to help dry out heater channels/ reduce rusting there. Then regulate temperature by opening a window if necessary.
Staying Aircooled is so much nicer.
Do'nt assume anything- (While doing fault-finding).
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