Hi all
I have just completed a successful removal and refitting of all 4 ball joints on a 73 baywindow - first change as the orgional joints were still in.
I did this on the vehicle without removing the arms or grinding or hammering.
I did this with a a copy i made of the VW removal tool with a modification of mine to reseat the new joints. I used a C clamp press i bought from Ardendorfs and my big 1 inch drive ratchet spanner bought years ago for R30 to stop shearing off the 3/4 drive when tightening beetle crank bolts.
after all the horror stories i was told and heard about needing a 10 ton press - this job was actually pretty easy with the correct tools.
I did have to fiddle around getting the ball joint tools 100% _ made them from mild steel not tool steel. i now have a good template for a tool and die maker to use to make them.
If any one is going to do this job - it can be done on the vehicle without stripping much.
vw kombi type 2 baywindow ball joint removal (pics added)
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- Drip
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vw kombi type 2 baywindow ball joint removal (pics added)
Last edited by jonathanrs on Fri Nov 12, 2021 8:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
- retrovan
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Re: vw kombi type 2 baywindow ball joint removal
well done, yes always better to made your own tools then you always have them.
Photos please
Herman
Photos please
Herman
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
- Tony Z
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Re: vw kombi type 2 baywindow ball joint removal
I tried to copy the VW tools and thought I did a good job, but they just ended up bending. I've been meaning to make another beefier version but I havent gotten to it yet.
Also, sometimes the G-clamp bends quite a bit and I've had to resort to other methods. Mine is a proper balljoint G-clamp, not a small woodworking one.
Glad you came right. It is a really crap job if the balljoints dont shift
Also, sometimes the G-clamp bends quite a bit and I've had to resort to other methods. Mine is a proper balljoint G-clamp, not a small woodworking one.
Glad you came right. It is a really crap job if the balljoints dont shift
ANGRRR
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=14775
1302S
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=33521
Panel Van
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopic.php?p=288723
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=14775
1302S
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 23&t=33521
Panel Van
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopic.php?p=288723
vader wrote: The Force is strong with you young Sith Lord Z!
- retrovan
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Re: vw kombi type 2 baywindow ball joint removal
Have always found it easy to use heat to expand the socket side ,
as even it you roast the ball joint, you going to turf it away anyway.
Herman
as even it you roast the ball joint, you going to turf it away anyway.
Herman
1952 Split Beetle 1835cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
1968 Fastback 2Lt.type4
1972 Low Light Bay Panel Van 2Lt type 4
1975 Fleetline Panel Van 1914cc
2020 MeFusco Beetle Truck 2Lt type 4
1972 FT Hahn SP 1776 cc
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- Drip
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Wed Sep 18, 2013 1:33 pm
- What model do you have?: Kombi
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Re: vw kombi type 2 baywindow ball joint removal
extraction tools
reseating tool
ardendorf C clamp - about R700
assembled extraction tool
new ball joints in
stub axle back on
Last edited by jonathanrs on Wed Nov 10, 2021 11:47 am, edited 3 times in total.
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- Drip
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Re: vw kombi type 2 baywindow ball joint removal
I copied the tools from pics of the VW tools found on the internet.
mild steel cost about R200 for the bits and pieces - i used a new balljoint as a template
plug welded etc together with a 50year arc welder with 3 settings so welds strong but not pretty
some modifications and reweld of the two pins (they compressed slightly on second joint as it the arm had lost a corner of the pushing area. weld made it stronger (heat treatment)
I tried to heat treat the tools - heated up in my anthracite stove and plunged in oil.
to use continually they really need to be made out of toolsteel. sadly i dont have a workshop or the equipment to do this.
the thinner tubes were used to press the new joints back in using the base of the extraction tool.
the Clamp worked perfectly - if you can bend that doing this I will eat it.
i compressed the ball bearing inside the shaft - so i can see the pressure I applied.
no heating required - the second side i pulled and replaced ball joints in about 1 1/2 hours - no rush.
i had to pull the upper ball joints with the camber adjuster on - would not move but there was enough clearance inside the tool to not damage the camber adjusters - removed afterwards and reused
this is a 1973 one owner bus - the joints removed were origional.
i used a punch to seat the top edges of the ball joint - didnt get to make the tool per VW
Ardendorf press cost about R700
steel cost me about R200
welding time and a few rods
a fair amount of time scratching my head and think about the whole process
I found 4 ball joints a while back marked ECO and with OE dust covers on them - possibly VW origionals? paid R1200
mild steel cost about R200 for the bits and pieces - i used a new balljoint as a template
plug welded etc together with a 50year arc welder with 3 settings so welds strong but not pretty
some modifications and reweld of the two pins (they compressed slightly on second joint as it the arm had lost a corner of the pushing area. weld made it stronger (heat treatment)
I tried to heat treat the tools - heated up in my anthracite stove and plunged in oil.
to use continually they really need to be made out of toolsteel. sadly i dont have a workshop or the equipment to do this.
the thinner tubes were used to press the new joints back in using the base of the extraction tool.
the Clamp worked perfectly - if you can bend that doing this I will eat it.
i compressed the ball bearing inside the shaft - so i can see the pressure I applied.
no heating required - the second side i pulled and replaced ball joints in about 1 1/2 hours - no rush.
i had to pull the upper ball joints with the camber adjuster on - would not move but there was enough clearance inside the tool to not damage the camber adjusters - removed afterwards and reused
this is a 1973 one owner bus - the joints removed were origional.
i used a punch to seat the top edges of the ball joint - didnt get to make the tool per VW
Ardendorf press cost about R700
steel cost me about R200
welding time and a few rods
a fair amount of time scratching my head and think about the whole process
I found 4 ball joints a while back marked ECO and with OE dust covers on them - possibly VW origionals? paid R1200
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- Pushrod
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Re: vw kombi type 2 baywindow ball joint removal (pics added)
Thanks Jonathan. This will be a good reference when I tackle this job on my Bay Window.