Aircooled VW South Africa

So time for the trans axle....

Have decided to use the axle I got with the newer pan because the bracket and everything is ok.

Bearings on the previous axle came off with a few taps and some prying... Not these it was keeping me up at night.


Bought a whole gearbox seal kit was going to remove axle tubes and then pull off that way... But decided against it because they only provide two of those gaskets in the kit and you seem to need two or three on each side. Also didn't want to tear into too much. Was going to cut races remove balls etc etc... Then remembered two little fingers I had made to try and get the pilot bearings from the beam that I messaged about a few days ago...

Just went to the garage drilled the holes a little bigger. Fitted them to my large gear puller and they came out like they were sliding on butter.

A small pic of the tool made from two pieces of flat bar and a little time with the angle and bench grinder.

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Also thought I would share what my 3/8 power bar and hardened 36 socket did to what was supposed to hold the drum when removing the one castle nut.

Wrapped it inside out around the drum...


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So yesterday was primer day for 90% of the things needed to get the rear axle back together and a few of the front beam things too...

Will be doing 2k next weekend

Have loads more photos.... Will follow as we go..

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You be carefult there now,......soon people will tell you you can give up your day job now !!!!!

Looking good !

Haans

Thanks for the encouragement guys.

So after a lot of work this weekend I have a rolling chassis.

Using a temp front beam as I am not yet done with the one I am redoing but axles on...

Bought 4 new ATE drum cylinders. There is a big one and a small one. Put the small ones on the back and broke both the lobes when i tightened them down. Wondering if I put the wrong ones in the back, but understood the bigger ones go at the front... Anyone come across this before?

Put paper gaskets on the axles with the o- rings I bought. Can't find my pesky vernier so can't give the sizes but will as soon as I find them.

I need some advice on the order of events for assembly from guys that have done this before please.

My thinking is the following:

1) refill gearbox and check for leaks
2) tread plate floor pans and seat brackets
3) brake lines including hand brake
3) Peddle box including clutch and Accelerator cable, brake bleeding
4) fuel line
5) Engine back in including clutch
6) body
7) steering and dash
electrics
9) roll bars and bumpers





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So have everything done on the pan and engine and gearbox and brakes...

Including seats... Body next weekend and then electrics... And roll cage/bumpers.

What a project...

Hoping to be done around Easter....

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Lot of effort has gone into it so far

Keep it up, will be stunning when done.

Herman

Impressive Keith !! Keep it up

Haans

nice work.
While it is easy, put the fuel filter next to the gearbox where it belongs and remove it from the engine bay.

Thanks, Have done that with new fuel lines all the way from the front as the existing one was blocked and could not be cleared...

Also did some work I didn't mention here to secure the clutch tube on all three of it's mounts without cutting huge holes in the tunnel...

So Guys after marathon effort we have the body and roll cage on and wiring done...

What a mission. Wiring was a night mare and I cut away so many added pieces and wires that had been extended 20 cm at a time... What a mess...

So this afternoon we pulled her into the road to head off for a tank of some fresh gas and on take off it shuddered so badly it shook the terminals off the battery....

It happens right at the end of the clutch as I am releasing it... Speed of release and technique makes no difference.. always the same result.

I am reading it's possibly the bowden tube... Below the pic of how it looks (realized I didn't take a good one... I put a few washers in to start with because I wasn't liking how little it bent, but I think we maybe haven't done enough...

Its also not a new clutch plate.. I believe the existing one has enough meat remaining but perhaps that's the issue...

Your advice please. We just want to give it a little shake down...



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Looks rather straight to me on the photo.

You should have about 40 mm off straight

If you have a lot of grease in it you may have to go a bit more.

Old plate will not give you shudder by it self.

Good luck, nice to see it on the road

Herman

take a photo of the bowden tube from in front of the rear wheel

Listen to the ghurus,........I also paid hefty "school" fees to get shudder out bowden tube must have the "kink" in it

Haans

Accelerator cable can also be modulated by powertrain movement.
Distance needed of that "kink" in clutch cable, in the end, is related to stiffness/condition of your engine mountings/framehorns.