Aircooled VW South Africa

Hi Gents,

Trust you are doing well. I am busy building a farm buggy listed under this thread: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=38835

I need to replace the push rod tubes and could not find any of the spring-loaded tubes locally, so I got these:


I need some advice (I am a complete noob on mechanical issues) on how to install them correctly. This is what I intend to do:

1) Remove valve cover;

2) Remove rocker assembly;

3) Remove push rods (and keep them in order as I remove it)

4) Remove the head;

5) remove the old tubes and replace with new tubes (in this regard, with what grease can I seal the new tube seals - standard WB grease? I have also read somewhere that the tubes need to be stretched to 190mm - but as I measure the new tubes the length between the seals as they seat properly is already at 190mm. Is it still necessary to stretch them or is it a stretch until it fits properly situation?)

6) Re-attach the head (What is the tightening order?)

7) Insert the push rods and re-attach the rocker assembly;

Check clearances.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance

A = 190mm

B = 210mm




A pic of the rocker assembly

Most guys stretch the tubes past 190 mm as it will seat better if clamped down by the head.

The heads are normally center bottom left, center top right, center bottom right, center top left, outer bottom right, outer top left, outer bottom left, outer top right.

As most cars you need to start in the center , crisscross to the outside.

Herman

Try to position the tubes so that the seam faces up. I don't know if it really helps but I was told it reduces the chance of leaks.

Be careful when removing the heads that you don't unseat the sleeves by the casing otherwise you will have to clean off the old sealant and reseal them before a major oil leak appears

Number
1)
2)
3)
4)
and 5)
After removing tinware, clean long block to "medically clean" status BEFORE removing heads. Pressure cleaning, scratching away dirt, degreaser, dishwashing soap, boiling water, pressurised air, etc.

Also: an old trick is to fine polish the sealing surfaces in a circular direction. Using common sense methods. Both case and heads. Also pushrod tubes. In the end, the sealing surfaces should see no casting flashes or seams.

Those pushrod seals from the cheapy engine gasket kits, discard them and use proper pushrod seals. Because the cheapy seals are not resistant to oil and not resistant to heat. They harden and leak within a few months.
Doing so will ensure a lifetime of no leaking.

Dawie wrote: Wed Aug 21, 2019 11:31 pm Number
1)
2)
3)
4)
and 5)
After removing tinware, clean long block to "medically clean" status BEFORE removing heads. Pressure cleaning, scratching away dirt, degreaser, dishwashing soap, boiling water, pressurised air, etc.

Also: an old trick is to fine polish the sealing surfaces in a circular direction. Using common sense methods. Both case and heads. Also pushrod tubes. In the end, the sealing surfaces should see no casting flashes or seams.

Those pushrod seals from the cheapy engine gasket kits, discard them and use proper pushrod seals. Because the cheapy seals are not resistant to oil and not resistant to heat. They harden and leak within a few months.
Doing so will ensure a lifetime of no leaking.

Thanks Dawie.

Is there a gasket between the heads and the case I have to look out for?

These tubes are a pain!!.....but if you follow the advice given here,....you stand a chance that maybe only one tube end will sweat!!!.
Please note that when you believe it is clean,......start the process again!!!!!!!! It can never be clean enough!
When the torque process starts,....chase everybody away!!!!,.....no ,....yes no interuptions!!! Make a drawing of sequence,......I did. If I can recall the 1st sequence is different to the 2nd sequence.
Some say glue to the seals on the ends of the tubers,.....others say plain engine oil ?????? Wait for the gurus to give guidance with this

Do not take a drink or speak to anybody untill you are done!!!

Enjoy!!!!!!! Haans