My Bug - New peekchas

[Tony Z]

warm is OK. Being second hand it doesnt rule out that it might be faulty.
try your filters and if she stops again as before, open the carb and check the fuel level in the bowl. If empty, you have fuel issues.

[MarshallGTi]

update, checked the needle+seat, they look new. made sure the pump is pumping and all seems well. last night decided out of frustration and not much idea what to do next, i tried putting (another) new condenser. lo and behold, started 1st swing, idled great once warm, drove nice, has semi decent power, all seems well

now my question to those much wiser than myself, why the hell does my car go theu more condensers than petrol???
i started a seperate thread in case any1 else has similar issues so maybe my mystery can help others too.
http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... =4&t=27066

another question, i set my timing statically, should i have it done properly (strobe timing light) or will it not make much difference?

thanks for looking
Ryan

[MarshallGTi]

news as it stands, sent it to a mate for a tune up and make sure all was hundreds, then took her for roadworthy middle of last week. passed the test (just have an oil leak to fix), and drove the 45km trip quite well.

however, on the return leg i felt one or 2 flat spots, and just as i got home the flat spot turned into a misfire. tried on saturday to go for a spin, struggled to start. drove round the block and got stuck at a robot. eventually got it started again and nursed her home. feels like the same miss that i've had a few times already, caused by the condenser. i've changed the wires so that the external coil resistor isnt part of the circuit, hoping that would fix the problem. so this condenser lasted all of 47km

[MarshallGTi]

right, so i managed 48km this past weekend on the new condenser, and not one single hiccup yet
checked the earthing, and all looked great. even got a very good reading of 1.1ohm from the dizzy case to the taillinght screws...
decided to start checking wiring to the coil after u guys saying it could be too much or too little voltage. i found one wire, all of 3 or 4 inches long, that i couldnt get a consistent/decent reading on. jumped anywhere between 40 ohm and 75 ohm. got rid of that, neatened up the wiring a bit and off we went. i'm very chuffed now. even my seatcover (who has understandably been quite anti-beetle of late) was thoroughly impressed and asked if we could take it for another spin yesterday

for the record, the one coil had a reading of 2.1 ohm and i used this with the resistor, the other (currently fitted) reads 4 ohm and is now wired without the resistor.
i suspect that dodge wire was causing times of far too little voltage to the coil, and at times spiking too much voltage. anyways, i'll use it to get groceries this week and find the scenic route to the shops and see if all goes well.

thanks for all the help and input guys, i owe u beers

[MarshallGTi]

on a side note, i need to sort out the oil leak... push rod tubes are marking territory quite badly, as pointed out by my mom after i left new stains on her driveway 2 days after she scrubbed the old ones off

[MarshallGTi]

never bloody ends does it. went to visit the parents last night and as i pull onto the pavement theres an almighty bang and the right rear locks up. drive into the driveway and alls fine. then on the drive home i take it slow and by the time i get there i can smell somethings not right. right rear drum is way too hot to touch and is giving off a wonderful combination of smoke and burnt brake smell. i think one of the springs has broken/come loose.

[Golfmad]

Eish man !! Yeah you'll need to take the drum off and see what went wong.

I once cooked my bus's rear right brake drum so badly it smoked like a veld fire in winter. It was adjusted too high so it caught on the shoes all the time I drove on the highway. Luckily nothing broke but I had to replace slaves and rubers afterwards.

Driving an OLD car is the same as being an old person - always have some kind of "skeet of kwaal".

[MarshallGTi]

yea well, suppose i'll need to find time to sort that now too, and see if a can borrow the old mans kombi for KKK. just very miff now

[Tony Z]

yea well, suppose i'll need to find time to sort that now too, and see if a can borrow the old mans kombi for KKK. just very miff now

It happens to us all. Pack it away and look at it when you are feeling better.
On a bright side, once you have fixed everything properly, then you wont have anything to worry about except routine maintenance.

[MarshallGTi]

right so this past weekend got some work done. after much swearing to get the 36mm nut off the drums (stupidly tight and some old age) and lots of hammering to get the stuck drum off, i succeeded. turns out the last time the bug had brakes done they used cheap shite. the friction material had come loose off the backing plate and got jammed in the works. went and got a new set of shoes and fitted and cleaned alas, then ran out of daylight so i kinda dont have a working handbrake for now

anyways heres the old kak bit


and heres one side all new and nice

[MarshallGTi]

ok please forgive the sideways photos, i cant get them to upload the right way so deal with it.
goodies from Autopavillion



big smiles for this bit....

before


during......


after :hurray:


very glad that the license and kak is finally sorted.

also gave my smoothie caps a bit of love and finally fitted them.





a random dash shot, any ideas as to the colour scheme?



and finally a shot on the road

[MarshallGTi]

and then some random shots in a nice bit of park neear my place. i'm no photogragher and these are from my galaxy's camera so dont judge.
was a great day driving here there and everywhere to try get some mileage on the old girl, even the SO was enjoying the old school fun.

[MarshallGTi]

thats all volks, thanks for looking

[Tony Z]

looking good!

[vader]

Right, i fiddled and farted under the bug a bit this weekend. 1st question, this bolt on the rear suspension, should it look like this?
Yes it should look like that, its your bump stop

secondly, theres quite a bad oil leak, coming from the pushrod tube seals on the right and tappet cover on the left. i'm told i can get away with just new gaskets and that once the head is off the tube seals are an easy fix. will eventually get those fancy spring loaded ones from volkspares when i have more cash...



This is an easy job to do. What you will need is the Torque settings for the bolts in the heads, a Torque Wench , feeler gauge Pushrod tube seals (the softer ones are better) & some other tools. Turn Motor to TDC on Cyl1. Strip heads, remove tubes. CLEAN everything!!! Pull the pushrod tube ends to lengthen them a bit; replace seals & coat with some engine oil, this will help to seal it. Reasemble & Torque Heads, set valve clearence on all banks. Re-check/set the timing. And you should be leak free. The adjustables are SH!T Dont piss your money away. Everyone that I know who has bought them put the OE tubes back on and turf the adj's

then on to the one dodgy headlight and the fact that i cant adjust either of them. i want to fit OE Hella Citi lights this is what my light and the space in the fender looks like. what do i need to do to make the Citi lights fit?


Looks like youve sorted that out

and last but not least, i want to adjust the drums as the right rear is binding when the brakes warm up. i know its a simple adjustment but i left it too late in the day and it got dark. can someone please tell me what position the adjuster hole must be in to get to the adjust? (1 o clock/8 o clock/etc)

Ok here is what you do. Handbrake down and unscrew both adjustment nuts so that there is ample movement for the hb lever in the drums. The adjhole is 4ish and 10ish. If you shine a light in the hole you will see the adjustment teeth. Im assuming you have newiesh shoes on? If not replace the shoes and skim the drums; service the slaves & bleed the brakes. If they are new do the following... Adj the shoe till it locks the drum, then unlock 6-8 teeth. This should allow the drum to spin without binding on its cirumference. If you find that there is too much adjustment required then there is a problem with the shoes or drums. Do both shoes on each wheel. Now you can re adjust the handbrake so that it takes 4 clicks to lock both wheels at the same time when you pull it. Take it for a test drive yank the handbrake and make sure that they both lock at the sametime. Stand on the foot brake and few time to check if it pulls straight under heavy braking. If not go reset the offending wheel.
NB!!! If you remove the rear drums there is a very very very F@cking go reason why they are so toit!! If it aint tight you gonna sing You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel. Best way to screw up your day! Use the large powerbar and 1.5mx30-40mm steel tube and MAAK VAS!!!