Beetle Pickup Conversion

[davetapson]

I've tooled around with the idea of a pickup conversion for a beetle for many a year. I have a shell of a beetle that had it's rear window broken out and then stood in the weather for many a year = majorly rusted rear valence etc. hence I'd not be shy to cut this one up, bakkie stylee.

I'm having a scoot around to see what people have done in terms of pickup conversions.

My main concerns:
1. End cap to seal up rear of cab. I'd like this to look good - no half-assed piece of tin plate like you see on other cars that have been converted. I'd at least like to get a nice curve where the plate meets the cab, and then have some ridges pressed in to the plate for looks and to stop it flexing / resonating.
2. I think I'd like to brace the chassis. In my mind cutting half of the body off is not going to help in terms of body / pan flex. Does anyone know of info I can get regarding braces for beetle pans?
3. The bak I'm not too concerned with. I'd probably make up a frame base on to which I could bolt baks (bakke?) - I like the idea of one made from aluminum kickplate with drop sides, and one made old style out of wood, with rails. I wan to be able to transport a mountain bike and an off road bike - not at the same time.

I've also wondered if an Impi motor may be a better idea as his fan shroud looks flatter than a standard shroud, meaning that the height of the bak (which is limited by the height of the fan shroud) could be lowered.

You guys got any links / ideas?

Dave.

[retrovan]

Should I be you , I would use a type 4 motor, this will make cooling easy, as now you can duct air from under van body, and this will be nice and low. Go for the wide body look, should be great. Also use the engine cover for type 3.
Good luck.

[MINCE]

check out this thread dude!
Some great ideas of turning into a panel van. There are also a few pick of bakkie conversions, especially the first pic you see of one!

http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... =5&t=21334

[retrovan]

Both these pick up's look good.....







Sure both have type 4 engines, with side ducts that suck air from wheel well.

I THINK......

[Dazz]

The second one looks fantastic

[davetapson]

Any thoughts about bracing the pan? Is this required?

[retrovan]

Any thoughts about bracing the pan? Is this required?

You will have to build the "bakkie", as all Japanees "bakkies" are built.

You find the highest point on your pan, Bend a "U" channel from 1.2 mm sheet, approx. 75 mm high with 25mm legs, set it ontop of your pan, channel on end.

Then you do the same every 300 mm apart, remembering to measure each hight to the 1st one as they may all now be bigger on the 75 mm side.

Then you find a floor to put over it.

If you look under any bakkie, you will see the concept.

Other option is, find a back of a bakkie you like, and start cutting............

Herman

[davetapson]

Hi Herman

Wasn't thinking of the bak - was thinking of the floor pan. If you chop half of the body off (i.e. the rear half), you no longer have the structural bracing that the body of the car gives to the floor pan. Plus you have the weight of the front half of the car plus the weight of whatever bak and load you put on the rear. Just seems to me that it may be a good idea to reinforce the floor pan?

In a post by a guy building a volksrod in the Netherlands, he says that all buggies in the Netherlands need to have a reinforcing frame added to the floorpan of 30mm x 30mm x 3mm tubing.

Dave

[retrovan]

That could be correct.

I would leave the FULL pan in place, and as I said, Find the highest point, and work from there.

Then you have the hight needed, that must be added to the pan to have all the points at the same hight.
Now it makes sense, that if you place a rim around the pan, (where the body used to be), this will be easier to fill.
Now, depending on the size, you can use rectangular tube, or bend a "U" channel to fill this space,with legs facing inward. (this will make the pan water tight as well.)If you bend a "U" shape filler, It will be easer to go around a corner as you only cut out the webbs.(small sides)
This will be your strengthening. Also the car body and the BAK , as you call it, must be welded together for your strength.

Its the height of the tube (or filler) that gives strength, not so much the thickness.

Hope this makes sense, without a drawing, but can supply one if needed.

Herman

[MINCE]

if you do one, definitely go for this version, they did it back in the day, and looks the best

[MINCE]

[MINCE]

[davetapson]

Herman

Oh, ok. I had figured to keep the cab and pan seperate as there are on a bakkie. Hence the need for bracing the floor pan. Hadn't thought about welding the pan to the cab. This would require a fairly robust cap to the back of the cab, if it is to become part of the structural rigidity of the vehicle.

Dave

[davetapson]

The sort of thing I had in mind.

[davetapson]

Hey, what's happening with the rear hubs on this 'dub?