Aircooled VW South Africa

Hi Guys

Have not been on for a while.

Ok so the budget is sorted, well could it ever be sorted??

I am starting to re do my fleetline.

But i have one or two questions before i start with it,

1. Should i sort out the mechanical side of things first (mostly engine,gearbox & suspension) before going to paint?
2.Do the paint firts and have the risk of having it scratched etc (fresh paint being the most magnetic thing on earth for any tyoe of steel touching it)

Can you guys tell me where a good paint shop is, i know of guys but they are good with new cars, and old cars need alot more tlc!!

Looking forward to a good build!!

Dwayne

Hi Dwayne, surely doing the engine and underneath mechanics isn't really going to scratch any new paintwork? I scratched my paint with fitting the fixtures, I.e. door handles, windows, wipers, etc

I would suggest that before you go spending good money, you need to make sure that the running gear and underneath is all good and that the project is a good basis.

Sorry can't help on good painter in your area. Can't wait for pictures though

I agree with Frank - do not start stripping the bus, I made that mistake before. Do all the mechanicals first, i.e brakes, suspension, motor, etc, etc. Start and finish each job. In this way you can still at least drive and enjoy the bus and restore it as your budget allows. When it comes to the painting part of it, depending what lengths you're going to, e.g sand blasting chassis and repainting, etc, etc, you may have remove suspension, gearbox, motor, etc. But at least you will know that when you're finished with painting,you can just bolt it all back on, satisfied that YOU know the mechanicals are all 100% . My 2c worth. Good luck with the project, take plenty photos

I had thought so aswell.
Well i have done steering brakes and engine is all sorted so far.

So first on my list is gearbox and suspension.
Want to do straight axle conversion as the revs are just too high for me, and do the suspension while it is being done.

Engine whise what can you gys say i could do, my 1600tp is in great condition, but would like anybody want a little more power, but was quoted to do a 1735 conversion an amount of R18 000

And to me that is just insane!!!

Thats just what i paid in parts to get to 1776...It's not cheap.

"So first on my list is gearbox and suspension.
Want to do straight axle conversion as the revs are just too high for me, and do the suspension while it is being done."

I saw the reves ant that high saw 2500 at 80 and 3000 at 90 kph with the rg's


are you going to lower the whole ride? front and back?

my fleetline road clearance


Know the fleetline got the 220mm road clearance thats higher that the germin split busses. think they are 190/200mm.
fig please confirm

yes going to do front and rear as the straight axle lowers the back already then just the front to match.

yes 3000 rpm @ 90 is ok but i do about a 100km/h and lets say thats 3200-3500 on a motor that doesnt like revs?
i want to do long trips in my bus and to drive to cape town at 80, that just aint for me

Ok guys, it has been a while, Just dropped the bus off at the panelbeater today, will upload some pics later today.

Now i am wondering about the color, what colors have you guys seen that you have liked, or would like to see?

I am open to any suggestions, even to respray original color? although i am not a big fan of the "kapoen" color.

Thanx again

Dwayne

ok some things i hav forgotten to say that has happened in the meantime, drums skimmed, and shoes re lined, brake cylinders redone, all steering king and link pins done (new) New starter, new sender in fuel tank, front left door lock re done, and door opens (finally).

If you go the straight axle route you'll need a bigger engine. The RGBs are there for a reason; a heavy bus needs lower gearing for the limited engine power. Personally I think lowered buses look stupid and are far less useful, especially in African conditions, but each to their own. Just consider that for the sake of looking "cool", you'll forfeit ground clearance, turning circle, load carrying ability and ride and handling quality. Not really ideal for a touring bus. I think most lowered buses are really only good for short posing drives in the city. But whatever floats your boat.

I drive stock split buses all over the country and they're designed to cruise all day at maximum speed. 100km/h cruising does no harm at all. Cruising at 3,000rpm means the fan is also turning slower, so cooling is not so effective. 3,500rpm is ideal crusing speed for a type1 engine.

When it comes to building engines, don't skimp. A properly rebuilt stock 1600 will set you back at least R8k. I had an 1835 with CW crank built a few years ago for about R18k, everything else stock. 1835s are not ideal bus engines as they have thin cylinder walls.

IMPI has built me a dual Weber 36IDF 1776 with CW crank, 100 cam, etc. I don't like to think what the total cost has been, but well over R20k, and that involved collecting all the parts over a number of years. We're fitting the engine to my 63 Dormobile next month and then we'll tally up the total cost and post on the forums to give people an idea of the true cost of building a mild performance engine.

Anyway, good luck with your build.

Hi, yes like FIG said lowering the bus will decrease your load carrying ability!!, but are you building it to carry loads of stuff and people around or are you getting camping interior ?
If you do lower you can pretty much forget about the dirt roads, with holes and bumps. I cant even get down the driveway without a scrape.
If the front is lowered you also run the risk of hitting your steering box against everything as that is the part that sticks out the most underneath, my front wheels hits the top of the wheel archers when I hit the bumps on the highway.
I dont have any problem with turning circle or handling.
As far as Im aware with the straight axle conversion the long axle (think its the AC) beetle gearbox's ratio supports the 1600TP engine and you should have no problem running it.
But again like FIG said lower gearing for loaded bus is an advantage or get a bigger engine

Everything on my bus is reversable, I still have the rgb gearbox, the original spindles, springplates and the lot. The only thing thats not that easy to return to normal is the 40mm steering box raise I did.

Goodluck with the build.

Post some pics of the progress !!

Keep it the original colour; it's a nice original bus to start with.

If you want to drive from Johannesburg to Cape Town at a fast pace you have bought the wrong car. Even if you go with all the extra's it is still an old VW bus at the end of the day and it wasn't made for fast driving.

If you want it to be practical, keep it how it should be. Modifications often lead to complications, keep it simple.

Sorry about that guys, that was a while ago, and have since then changed my mind, i am keeping the rgb and gearbox and engine as std as possible, maybe nice exhaust and twin carb setup, and that way it should be reliable aswell, i HATE standing next to the road, i have had an old mini and that was enough!!!

I would rather spend the money on a spray job, and interior. and to keep it as practical as possible.
Like you said a bus is made for cruising (i am over the racing part of my life)and that is what i am going to do, if it takes me a while longer, who cares??

So any comments on color/color combination guys?

Great progress so far, what was the original colour ?

I think it is called biscuit yellow, a mustardish yellow