TYpe 1 into type 3

[YvaneS]

Howsit guys

Can a type 1 engine be fitted into a notch?
If it can, what are the drawbacks? Would this be ok to do? Has it been done?

thanks in advance

[Tony Z]

unless I am mistaken, it is a T1 engine, just with a different cooling arrangement

[Chris]

It can be done,but you need the cooling pan and housing that fits on the front of the engine as well as the lower manifold and carbs.The altenator and stand has to be removed and a Type 3 setup fitted.

It is a big schlep and easier to source a Type 3 or Type 4 engine.

[69bug]

type 1 motor fits straight in, but you have to remove the "engine cover" of the car.
You also then have no rear boot space, and a lot more noise in the car.
Used my fasty like that for a few months!

[YvaneS]

type 1 motor fits straight in, but you have to remove the "engine cover" of the car.
You also then have no rear boot space, and a lot more noise in the car.
Used my fasty like that for a few months!

Ok I understand that the engine will be sticking out and will be sitting in the boot...but... How will cooling be affected if you do things like this?

[Blitzkrieg]

I'll be getting two type 3 sub assemblies with tin and carbs sometime in the next 4 months, for not too much of money, as you know...

[Tony Z]

just give it cool air and it should be OK - and make sure the hot air exits under the cooling tin

[Ron&Gill]

Hanging a T1 enging into a T3 will not work! Yes, it fits and mechanically it will go round, but you will not have the cooling. You will need to fabricate the air seperation plates that are present on a Beetle (creating the air inlet plenum seperate from the outlet), otherwise your T1 engine will simply ingest all the hot air and sharpishly overheat...

The cooling systems are vastly different. I also don't think you can use a T1 sub assembly for a T3 because you won't have a place to mount the crank driven fan.

Furthermore, If you don't have the engine hanger bar as in the newer T3s, but instead you have the rear engine mount immediately under your chest as you lean over the motor, you will damage the car driving it like that, the removable gearbox horns as well as the body mounts onto the shock towers. You should not drive a car with incomplete engine mounts, basically.

[YvaneS]

So basically... going the type4 route is easier?
The thing is, I can get a T1 engine complete minus flywheel, or the guy has a 2l kombi engine?
Isnt the kombi engine like a type 4?
I dont really know much about the kombi engine... Can anyone tell me more? Would this be ideal to fit into a notch? Power-wise, is that engine Tunable to make high power?

[calooker]

If the block is not a universal one or an original T3 you are screwed beacuse you will not have the opening for the oil dipstick, that is the only major diff. in a T1 & T3 sub assembly. It I were you I would take the T4 but there is still a little work involved.

[YvaneS]

Isnt the kombi engine like a type 4?
I dont really know much about the kombi engine... Can anyone tell me more? Would this be ideal to fit into a notch? Power-wise, is that engine Tunable to make high power?

[Blitzkrieg]

Isnt the kombi engine like a type 4?
I dont really know much about the kombi engine... Can anyone tell me more? Would this be ideal to fit into a notch? Power-wise, is that engine Tunable to make high power?

Read Impi's posts here:

http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... it=tractor

http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... 4&start=15

[YvaneS]

Thanks man, I think i'm going to take the type4... Getting it for R2k

[Dirk]

Back when we had my grandfather's fastback, the attempt was made.

Suffice it to say that doing this conversion, when all the parts and engineering is easily available,
will cost in the order of about 4 times the price of an overhauled Type 3 engine.

Yes, with enough money and effort it can be done... but is it worth it?