Aircooled VW South Africa

Wow I never read this post before and man this bus got around and it went to the best places up North.
I wonder how many hours where spent behind the wheel driving.It reminds me of my late Dad he wrote everything down every day where he went and what he done he even had a diary where he wrote it all for years.He also owned kombis and living in Zambia as a kid I remember the same thing camping any where you could brave it and traveled to many places even to Port Shepstone where we where stranded because the bridge got washed away and the new bridge was not open but after staying for 3 weeks they had just put the gravel on the bridge and my Dad said like it or not we are going over so off we went and made it across as we ran out of money and could not stay there any longer so we could be classed as the first public vehicle to cross the new bridge Hehe. I cant remember the yr but it was in the 60s when they had the floods.
Thanks for the post Don just the places it traveled bought back some good memories of my Mom and Dad which I never really thought about those days and now feeling a bit sad but wonderful memories Thanks again.
Sorry for going on but if it does not belong on this thread please remove it Thanks.

Looks good Donovan. Glad its happening again.
Your setup is looking good. Now its time to finish neatening up the engine bay and enjoy the bus again.

Thanks for sharing the VW memories Terry.

Carbs Carbs and Carbs

Spent the weekend trying to get the idle mixtures and timing sorted, cant get the 36 idf's to run properly.
The carbs are very rich, I can adjust the idle mixture screws at 3 and 4 with noticeable difference to the rpms. Im using a digital timing light that displays the rpms. I turned 3 and 4 individually to where the rpms were the highest and then turned each screw out another 1/8 turn.

Number 1 and 2 idle mixture screws have zero impact on idling even after fully seated.

After experiencing intermittent timing light issues on plug 1 I replaced the lead, with the same result.
Completely pulled the lead off the plug and noticed the plug was dead.

Pulled all plugs, pics below. Im guessing I need to go a step down on the idle jets, currently they are 50's.
I removed the carb from 1 and 2 and cleaned it out. The progression holes are not visible, but still it is running rich and killed plug 1. Even with the idle screws fully seated it still runs, its getting fuel but from where ??


In order plug 1,2,3,4

Which fuel pump do you use?

make sure your bypass screws are closed.
Your idle screws should be open roughly 1 turn from closed
double check that your idle air jet is open (its not removable in the idf carbs), this is on the top of the carb

Double check that your needle and seat actually does seal. I've seen a few rebuild kits that dont seal.

Dawie, he is running the same 3psi fuel pump that I use on weber carbs without any issues.

I don't get it.. You pulled the ICT's because you couldn't get them to run properly. Then you get bigger IDF's and they don't run. You're having the worst luck Donovan. Maybe you need to take the bus to Tony and let him set it up for you bud..

acpaterson wrote: ↑Sun Oct 13, 2019 10:27 pm I don't get it.. You pulled the ICT's because you couldn't get them to run properly. Then you get bigger IDF's and they don't run. You're having the worst luck Donovan. Maybe you need to take the bus to Tony and let him set it up for you bud..

Second that....I'm sure ProfZ will tune that with his calculator to run like a jet

Tony Z wrote: ↑Sun Oct 13, 2019 7:16 pm
make sure your bypass screws are closed. -- checked
Your idle screws should be open roughly 1 turn from closed - when I had the engine on the bench and played around with the gunson colortune the correct settings according to the spark color chart was when the idle mixture screws were 1/4 turn out. Picked up the same with the rpms on the timing light, the rpms were at the highest when the idle mixture screws were out about 1/4 to 1/2 turn from seated , thinking the 50 idles are too rich ?.

double check that your idle air jet is open (its not removable in the idf carbs), this is on the top of the carb -- where do they sit ?


Double check that your needle and seat actually does seal. I've seen a few rebuild kits that dont seal.
The ones in the kit had that rubber tips if I remember correctly, I bought new ones from Dave without the rubber tips.

acpaterson wrote: ↑Sun Oct 13, 2019 10:27 pm I don't get it.. You pulled the ICT's because you couldn't get them to run properly. Then you get bigger IDF's and they don't run. You're having the worst luck Donovan. Maybe you need to take the bus to Tony and let him set it up for you bud..

...And before the ICT's I had the twin solex SP carbs, which wouldnt stop leaking petrol, even after rebuilds.
I guess thats the gamble when buying second hand carbs for cheap.
...The IDFs did get me to Kagga kamma and back without issues, they just seem very rich.

I would guess you have a jetting issue. I wouldn't trust the number that's stamped on the jet either, they not new, so anyone in the past could have reamed them out to a bigger size.

Judging by the condition of the plugs, its just burning way too much petrol.

Tony Z wrote: ↑Sun Oct 13, 2019 7:16 pm Dawie, he is running the same 3psi fuel pump that I use on weber carbs without any issues.

No insult intended, Tony, but 3 PSI is still to high for old Weber's.

Max should not be above 2.5 PSI

Had a 3psi facet pump and had a fuel usage of 5 Km/ Liter, changed to the Huco 13 3010 2.5psi max, and now getting 9km/l no change in settings on the carb.

D try to fit a 5jt can with petrol higher then the carb, and then try to set the carbs, if you get it to run right, then the problem is pressure.

Good luck.

Herman

Tony Z wrote: ↑Mon Oct 14, 2019 12:14 pm

Mmmmm, I sprayed some carb cleaner in the holes and it came out where the idle mixture screws turn in.



...But it seems the gaskets that were on and the new ones does not have these holes and simply blocks it off.

that might be a problem right there.

These jets serve two functions
1) they add air to the idle circuit (hense the name)
2) when you turn the engine off, it acts as an anti-siphon valve and stops fuel from siphoning out of your fuel bowl and into the engine via the idle circuit.

Spraying in the carb cleaner and having it come out of the idle holes is good
I think you might help (or solve) your issue if you can get air to them (gasket and air filter base)

Tony Z wrote: ↑Tue Oct 15, 2019 6:34 pm that might be a problem right there.

These jets serve two functions
1) they add air to the idle circuit (hense the name)
2) when you turn the engine off, it acts as an anti-siphon valve and stops fuel from siphoning out of your fuel bowl and into the engine via the idle circuit.

Spraying in the carb cleaner and having it come out of the idle holes is good
I think you might help (or solve) your issue if you can get air to them (gasket and air filter base)

The carb top and filter base do allow for air to pass through to these idle air jets, its just the gasket that blocks it.
Will punch out the holes and see what happens.

Im hoping this is the issue as these carbs were rich/over fueling/ dripping petrol since the first time they went on.

Sean sorted my idling issue where the rpms would not return back all the way when coming off the petrol. The one carb was on those 5 progression holes when the carb returned to the idle stop screw.