Aircooled VW South Africa

Thanks Tony, my first guess is blocked jets as that engine as been standing for quite some time now collecting dust. Timing should be pretty close as I have not touched that from previous start ups. The timing light is also all over the place.

Fuel lines and firing order seems to be the same as in the initial startup videos I took.

with that dizzy, the timing light shouldnt be moving much
Wont hurt to double check everything by eye, you never know...

Started the elimination process.

Rechecked the firing order/wiring.
Idle jets are clean, ran out of carb cleaner so need to check the idle passages are clear.
All 4 pump jets squirt out fuel, so there is def fuel in the bowl.

Static timing - rechecked the location of rotor tip when the pulley is 7 degrees BTDC at no 1. Something looks dodgy here.
The rotor tip has already passed the distributor terminal no 1 at this point, Im guessing by 5-10 degrees.

I did not have time to play with the timing or restart the engine.
Surely if its timing related it should backfire ? How can no 1 and 2 make such a difference in engine sound and 3 and 4 does nothing if the leads are pulled if it is the timing ?

Vacuum and plug lead clips still need to be checked/removed.

Wow, sorry you're having some much pita with this motor and carbs Don, I thought you had got it sorted man.. I can't offer any further input here except get a timing light on the car and set the timing on the marks, as Tony used to say to me, the happy point is different on all our motors, so, just continue turning the disti until you get a happy sound.

Hope it comes right buddy.

Alan

Donovan D wrote: ↑Wed Mar 07, 2018 7:29 am ......Static timing - rechecked the location of rotor tip when the pulley is 7 degrees BTDC at no 1. Something looks dodgy here.
The rotor tip has already passed the distributor terminal no 1 at this point, Im guessing by 5-10 degrees. ....

If your rotor is too far away from your ditributor cap contact pin, the spark has to jump to reach it.

Fit a spark plug to number 1 lead and lay it onto the engine casing, open the dizzy cap and turn the motor at number 1 fire point.

Go slow, and where the plug fires, make a mark on the side of dizzy with tippex, fit cap and see how far you off from center on the rotor.

Could be that you 180 out on your dizzy shaft, or you could have the incorrect points in the dizzy which moves your firing off your rotor.

Good luck

Herman

Donating an engine to the next case burn at KKK.

I removed the choke covers, @Tony Z, not really sure what should or should not be here ??

3 and 4


1 and 2



Got some carb cleaner and sprayed it in the passages, the idle passages are open.
I removed the lead on the dizzy cap at no1 and made a straight line to the dizzy. Removed the cap and the rotor was way off.
The rotor was on number 1 at about 20 BTDC





So I set the pully to 7 btdc and turned the dizzy till the line was straight with the rotor tip.

Pulled valve covers to check valve clearance, no 4 was a bit tight so adjusted it. Side 3 and 4 was also covered in quite a bit of oil compared to 1 and 2.



Next step was to fire it up. Engine was smoother than before, but 4 is still not 'firing'. Connected the timing light and it was spot on 7 btdc.
I swopped out plug leads with my old set and 4 still makes no change, if i pull the lead of no 4 I can see the arc. Turned the idle jet screw and also nothing.


Pulled all four plugs and all of them are pretty fouled and have carbon build up, new plugs not even doing 10min in the engine.
Number 3 plug however is wet and Im guessing this is oil as it does not smell of petrol.

In order, 3 and 4


2 and 1, no 1 plug looks the cleanest.

Have a look at your fuel pump pressure, I am sure you pumping fuel past your float, needle and seat, which is flooding your engine.

Herman

Donovan, valve clearance should be adjusted with the engine at TDC, not 7 BTDC. This may not be the only problem, but at least it's a start.

How sure are you that TDC on the pulley, is actual TDC? I have seen quite a few aftermarket pulleys being way off on the markings.

As others have said, it looks like an over fuelling issue. Plugs don't take a lot to foul up with fuel. You may be lucky to clean them and go again, but they are easily damaged beyond recovery. Replace them with a new set.

retrovan wrote: ↑Sat Mar 10, 2018 4:55 pm Have a look at your fuel pump pressure,

My gauge shows 2.5PSI, Dave at FFRs gauge shows 3PSi, not sure how accurate these gauges are but that seems well within the limit.

fourier wrote: ↑Sat Mar 10, 2018 6:42 pm Donovan, valve clearance should be adjusted with the engine at TDC, not 7 BTDC. This may not be the only problem, but at least it's a start.

How sure are you that TDC on the pulley, is actual TDC? I have seen quite a few aftermarket pulleys being way off on the markings.

As others have said, it looks like an over fuelling issue. Plugs don't take a lot to foul up with fuel. You may be lucky to clean them and go again, but they are easily damaged beyond recovery. Replace them with a new set.

Valves were indeed checked at TDC, the 7 BTDC is the current timing at idle. I have had this pulley on for quite some time and the engine ran without missing a beat at around 7 BTDC and 28 BTDC at max advance with the 34 ICTs and the previous distributor.

Apologies D, just went off what you said in an earlier post...

"So I set the pully to 7 btdc and turned the dizzy till the line was straight with the rotor tip.

Pulled valve covers to check valve clearance, no 4 was a bit tight so adjusted it. Side 3 and 4 was also covered in quite a bit of oil compared to 1 and 2."

Those pics you posed... those little jets should be able to move freely up and down. Use a screwdriver to test.
When up, the choke is active - you need to make sure they seat nicely and freely.

Also, being a 1600, you should be able to use a 50 or 52 idle jet. You wont need bigger than that on our engine. I use a 50 in my bus's 2110 with 36IDFs and 57 in Angrrr. Check your size.

Check your dizzy's springs and stops. You might find that using a 16deg total advance stop bush will help things, so you'll end up setting idle at 12DBTDC to get your total to 28.
Then make sure the springs start advancing around 1000rpm. Aim to have the advance finish around 3000rpm.

And yes, once a plug is fouled, its usually fowled permanently. Instead of buying 4 next time, rather by a box of 10 - you'll use them eventually and you'll have spares for whenever you need them.

Pulled off one carb to get to the choke valves. Those valves arent going anywhere they are stuck good and solid, spent a good amount of time soaking them and trying to get them to move.



Dave did tap and plug these holes when he rebuilt the carbs, Im sure he did say that it is the choke/enrichment circuit outlets.



I rechecked the idle jets and they are 52s all round.

I've got no idea where the chokes come out, hopefully thats not your problem.

Double check your timing and then if you still have issues, move onto float heights and also confirm that your needle and seats seal properly

Carbs are definitely not my thing

I have checked needle and seats, cleaned everything and rechecked float. But will do it again.
Timing light on number one lead shows 7degrees BTDC.

Judging from the pic below, the hole Dave plugged seems to be the enrichment/choke circuit.


Cant be too big idle jets ?

Donovan,
I'm pulling at straws here, I recall having this chat with Tony when I had the Speedy, and pulling 3 and 4 off did VERY little to idle tone. After the umpteenth carb check etc, I also decided to replace all the HT leads and fitted new plugs. I discovered the plug had a broken core, out the box.. Don't want you to waste cash, but if you have old leads and a plugs, just try replace them first.
Then set the timing exactly like yours, or I was slightly further along like 29 or 30' btdc. It sounds more electrical to me.

good luck buddy.

Al