Christn (http://www.djb.co.za/node/11)

[Dirk]

I have put this off for far to long already.
So the stripping process has started.

Right now the interior is getting striped, but as with all things, the unforeseen has happened.

There is a leak somewhere that let water through to the front panels. Once I saw this I immediately started taking out the carpeting and found that, at some point, someone installed those hard-board-tar-mixed stuff on the floor pans. Of course this does nothing but trap water... i.e. RUST, and getting the stuff out is an absolute pain in the rectum.

If you have a suggestion on how to get this stuff out, and properly clean the pan, I'd greatly appreciate it. Also, if you know why anyone would install these horrible things, please be so kind as to let me know.

The grey spots you see in the middle bottom is my garage floor. Strangely enough this is the part of the floor that was actually bone dry.


Some pictures of the hardboard stuff I've managed to take out with a scraper and hammer.

[beetlepower]

as far as I know that hardboard tar stuff was standard from the factory. cos my fasty and beetle have it in..

[Dirk]

They must have had damn good reason for doing it.
Any ideas on how to get it out? Other than a hammer and chisel movement that is.

[1972]

dirk take the body off ,put the pan in the sun (on a nice hot day) give it some time once the pan gets nice and hot you can almost pull it off with your hands i know it worked for me or grab a hairdrier full heat and heat up small sections at a time and remove them good luck

[Blitzkrieg]

What are your plans for the car? Chassis off resto?

[Chris]

Sound deadning.

[Pine]

The Notch is supposed to have two thick drain pipes from the front vents (in front of the windscreen), through the cab and firewall to an oulet below the chassis. If they are not there, you have a wet interior...

[Dirk]

What are your plans for the car? Chassis off resto?

Baring serious happenings... YES!!!

I've already downloaded the correct wiring diagram for her, that to will be replaced.

The basic plan is as follows:
The items are not in any particular order at this point and the plan is not totally complete as laid out here.

Phase 1. Disassemble and mechanical.
1.1. Identify what needs to be replaced.
1.2. Identify what needs to be repaired.
1.3. Replace and repair all identified items.
1.4. Get engine re-built.
1.5. Get the gearbox Buggered.
1.6. Get the pan sorted. (Replace pan halves if budget allows).
1.7. Get suspension sorted, including new king and link pins. This includes sand blasting and powder coating as well as new shocks.
1.8. Manufacture and install new break and fuel lines.
1.9. Overhaul complete break system. (Full disk break conversion as and when the budget allows.)
1.8. Bag and tag everything with photos throughout the whole process.

Phase 2. General Body and exterior (This will be outsourced)
2.1. Get the body taken down to bare metal.
2.2. Get the body repaired including dents and rust removal.
2.3. Respray. (Red, wet look if possible)

Phase 3. Electrical system.
3.1. Manufacture complete new loom.
3.2. Clean and refurbish irreplaceable parts.
3.3. Have all buttons and knobs manufactured out of aluminium. (As and when time and money become available.)

Phase 4. Re-assembly.
4.1. Procure all new rubbers.
4.2. Procure all new bolts, screws and nuts (In stainless steal only)
4.3. Re-assemble with proper assistance and outsourcing where required (to line panels up correctly).

Phase 4. Interior.
4.1. Complete new interior in A-grade vinyl as per original spec. (in black and red.)
4.2. New roof lining in milk-white.
4.3. Dashboard repair/replace.
4.4. Horn ring replace. (Already sourced a new one, thanks Rui).

Phase 5. Get RWC and other required paperwork.
5.5. Just do it.
5.6. Get the personalized number plate N0T4S4L3 (if I ever have money to blow on this kind of thing)

Phase 6. Enjoy it.
6.1 Go to every car show and blow peoples socks off.

Yes, I know I'm in this for the long-haul.

I can only persevere and do my best.
All things considered, I do stand a high chance of success.

[Dirk]

The Notch is supposed to have two thick drain pipes from the front vents (in front of the windscreen), through the cab and firewall to an oulet below the chassis. If they are not there, you have a wet interior...

Thanks Pine, now I know how to sort that problem. For the time being the water is kept at bay with a car cover.

[1972]

2.3. Respray. (Red, wet look if possible)

like this

[Dirk]

Yes actually, very much like that.

[1972]

nice (ruby red) mine will be ruby red and pearl white the red will look great on your car good luk with your build would you mind posting some pics of the car as some of us dont know what it looks like ........thanks

[Chris]

http://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopi ... &start=195

[1972]

thanks chris

[Ron&Gill]

Be careful of replacing all bolts with stainless steel. There are many specific bolts amde from specific material, in particular high tensile steel bolts on suspension components, and mounts. If I am not mistaken, the body-pan bolts are also high tensile steel.