OK, so I'm planning a mass exhaust change...
My ambulance is losing it's twin-pipe noise-makers, in place of the correct exhaust, to my bug, which in turn is losing it's almost new pea-shooters to my mother's '62 bug, which will lose it's pipes to the rubbish heap.
Now, the problem is...
1. In order to remove the exhausts from my bug/bus - do the engines need to be removed?
2. Will my 1600 tp bug's pea-shooters fit my mother's '62 1200 bug?
3. What else should I know/replace while I'm at it?
N.
Exhaust change...
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Merlin
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Exhaust change...
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
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fig
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You don't need to remove the engine to replace the exhaust, although things are a bit tight on a Beetle.
1200 exhausts are not compatible with the 13/15/1600 engines and vice versa.
1200 exhausts have become even more difficult to find than correct bus exhausts.
When are we going to place our bulk order with your connection at Bosal?
If an exhaust has been on an engine for a long time, soak down all fasteners liberally with penetrating fluid for several days before you attempt to undo anything. Drilling out broken exhaust studs is not fun. (BTDT).
When replacing the nuts that hold the exhaust on, make the effort to find original-style copper nuts, which do not rust onto the studs the way the crappy galvanised ones in the gasket set do. Also, when reassembling, use copper-based lubricating paste on all threads; it'll help everything come apart much easier when the time comes to remove the exhaust again. And use Holts Fire Gum to seal all joins on reassembly.
1200 exhausts are not compatible with the 13/15/1600 engines and vice versa.
1200 exhausts have become even more difficult to find than correct bus exhausts.
When are we going to place our bulk order with your connection at Bosal?
If an exhaust has been on an engine for a long time, soak down all fasteners liberally with penetrating fluid for several days before you attempt to undo anything. Drilling out broken exhaust studs is not fun. (BTDT).
When replacing the nuts that hold the exhaust on, make the effort to find original-style copper nuts, which do not rust onto the studs the way the crappy galvanised ones in the gasket set do. Also, when reassembling, use copper-based lubricating paste on all threads; it'll help everything come apart much easier when the time comes to remove the exhaust again. And use Holts Fire Gum to seal all joins on reassembly.
fig
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Merlin
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Kewl; thanks for the info Fig.
Perhaps I should just leave the bee-baa exhaust on until it dies, and put a new noise-maker on my bug.
I'll have to see what I can do about the 1200 exhaust, and sell my bug's pee-shooters on here...
Bulk order? When? I'm still waiting for scans of your exhaust specs...
When I have that, then Bosal knows wtF to produce for us.
...got specs for 1200 exhausts too?
N.
Perhaps I should just leave the bee-baa exhaust on until it dies, and put a new noise-maker on my bug.
I'll have to see what I can do about the 1200 exhaust, and sell my bug's pee-shooters on here...
Bulk order? When? I'm still waiting for scans of your exhaust specs...
When I have that, then Bosal knows wtF to produce for us.
...got specs for 1200 exhausts too?
N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
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fig
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Scans? Hmmm, I don't own a scanner yet.
I have the exploded diagrams from the parts lists, but I'm not sure if they include the specs. You can find pdfs of the parts lists online. Somehwere (I've no idea where) I have a copy of a page from an old Bosal parts list with the part number of the correct splitbus exhaust.
Why not set up a meeting with your man at Bosal and I can show him parts lists and explain what we're looking for. If they don't have the records, I doubt they'll still have the tooling or be able to make what we want.
I agree, leave the existing exhaust on the ambo and replace it with the correct exhaust when this one finally rusts out.
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
I have the exploded diagrams from the parts lists, but I'm not sure if they include the specs. You can find pdfs of the parts lists online. Somehwere (I've no idea where) I have a copy of a page from an old Bosal parts list with the part number of the correct splitbus exhaust.
Why not set up a meeting with your man at Bosal and I can show him parts lists and explain what we're looking for. If they don't have the records, I doubt they'll still have the tooling or be able to make what we want.
I agree, leave the existing exhaust on the ambo and replace it with the correct exhaust when this one finally rusts out.
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
fig
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Merlin
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The Bosal guy is happy to help us out provided we supply them with what it is that we want.
They can produce as little as 20 exhausts for us.
I'll try get contact details for him today and ask him what exactly he needs, etc.
What you have should be fine.
Tooling is besides the point; they are happy to produce 'em.
Have you got parts literature for 1200 exhausts, too?
N.
They can produce as little as 20 exhausts for us.
I'll try get contact details for him today and ask him what exactly he needs, etc.
What you have should be fine.
Tooling is besides the point; they are happy to produce 'em.
Have you got parts literature for 1200 exhausts, too?
N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
-
fig
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I have original VW parts lists for pre-67 Types 1, 2, 3 & KG. Very useful reference with exploded diagrams of everything in the car (I mean EVERYTHING, down to nuts, bolts & washers).Merlin wrote:Tooling is besides the point; they are happy to produce 'em.
Have you got parts literature for 1200 exhausts, too?
I think you'll find that if they've scrapped the tooling they won't be able to help us, even if they're willing.
fig
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Merlin
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I'm told the guy said they could produce 'em as long as we provide the literature...
Enough with these negative waves so early in the morning...
N.
Enough with these negative waves so early in the morning...
N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
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calooker
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I find that using Hi-temp RTV sealant works great on sealing exhausts as it never goes hard and brittle with time, and seals 100%. I also make my own paper gaskets for the sealing of the exhaust flange to the head, cause those metal ones that come in the gasket sets are crap, they sometimes fall apart even before you fit them and the ID is smaller than the exhaust port causing restriction in the flow.
For what it's worth, ignorance has no limits ......
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flatfourfan
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Merlin
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Fig,
I spoke to the Bosal guy last night who was very helpful and friendly.
He's just phoned me back now.
We're stuck on Bay exhausts.
Bosal no longer have the tooling equipment and jigs as I was first told. :/
However, he did suggest a company which may be able to source the correct exhaust systems from Brazil.
I'm waiting on an email reply from them...
How hard can it be to shorten the pipe and weld it back on to the other side of the silencer? :/
I checked a few months ago, and memory serves me correctly, I could source a bay exhaust a 'special' price of around 1,200 from my contact.
Cheers, N.
I spoke to the Bosal guy last night who was very helpful and friendly.
He's just phoned me back now.
We're stuck on Bay exhausts.
Bosal no longer have the tooling equipment and jigs as I was first told. :/
However, he did suggest a company which may be able to source the correct exhaust systems from Brazil.
I'm waiting on an email reply from them...
How hard can it be to shorten the pipe and weld it back on to the other side of the silencer? :/
I checked a few months ago, and memory serves me correctly, I could source a bay exhaust a 'special' price of around 1,200 from my contact.
Cheers, N.
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer, the rear.
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
Hp is how fast you hit the wall, and Torque is how far you take the wall with you."
sled wrote:well obviously the UK is wrong.
-
flatfourfan
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flatfourfan
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Get one made up..........
I had one custom made for me for my old beetle by TNT, at that stage I gave them the J-pipes and the car for 2 days.....cost me R800 and was a work of art..(2.5 years ago)...I was quoted R1300 last month including new J-pipes for the same deal in stainless..
Dirk (fleetline kombi Pta) gets ones locally and the quality is bloody terrible, he pays almost R750 and the dammed thing has to be modified in order to fit...
I had one custom made for me for my old beetle by TNT, at that stage I gave them the J-pipes and the car for 2 days.....cost me R800 and was a work of art..(2.5 years ago)...I was quoted R1300 last month including new J-pipes for the same deal in stainless..
Dirk (fleetline kombi Pta) gets ones locally and the quality is bloody terrible, he pays almost R750 and the dammed thing has to be modified in order to fit...
