Mild 1600TP Turbo engine

[vader]

Ouch....

I think is better to think of it as budget? What Budget??? That way you always come in under budget!!!
Every one is always telling me "No Sire!!! Its going so cost to much!!"
Like really... what is a couple billion souls in the grander scheme of things... I ask you with steam in my helmet what is a budget...

[Bratjie]

At last I have the whole rotating assy sent off to Mc Donalds incl conrods & pistons, hopefully I can start putting together by the weekend, still need a few odd's & end's though, but we'll get there,

will post some progress pic's soon

[Bratjie]

Just received back the rotating assembly, now it's back to the assembly bench, hooray
Might be able to fit and start-up by the weekend

[Bratjie]

Assembly will start today, almost forgot one of the most important conversions but the block is back on it's way this morning,

Forgot to tap into oil line for an oil feed line to the turbo , now isn't that stupid,
Also still not sure on how to measure and cut the chromo pushrods but im sure it's covered somewhere in the Turbomania book,

Google is my friend!!

Anybody with suggestions or advise please chip in, don't be shy ,
will also start posting pic's of all the nice goodies going on.

[Edmond]

You don't need to tap into an oil line, just use a 1/8 NPT 1 male 2 female brass T piece and thread it in where the oil pressure switch port is in the casing that way you have your oil feed for your turbo ans still keep the oil pressure switch or gauge.

To measure the pushrods you need one of those adjustable length pushrods to mockup the valve geometry.Once you are happy that the valve geometry is right take the measurement of the adj pushrod and transfer it to the chromo ones, it's easier to part them off in a lathe but a decent tubing cutter will also work to cut them to size. Install the ball ends using 2 old cam followers on the top and bottom and hammer the followers to seat the ball ends.You can make your own adj pushrod just get a std alu pushrod cut it in 3 pieces so its about 20mm shorter than std chuck the 20mm piece away and thread the other two pieces which still have the ball ends on use a threade rod to adj the length and a nut to lock it in place

[Bratjie]

Thanks for the advise Edmond, however

I am so mad right now i could kiss a @#$%^%$ Spitting cobra! Sent the block to have thread tapped into the oil line in front of the oil sender location and the F@#$$ing idiots over drilled, then tried putting an insert and went through to the distributor hole, this will cause oil pressure loss, Dont know how I'm going to fix this, now I lose the casing, money spent on lineboring and propably the main bearings I bought for that size. I should've gone with the T-piece idea but noooo! Have to be cleverrrr

If anybody can suggest a fix for this please help, Now I'm going to kill a bottle of Richelieu

[Bratjie]

So I thought of a solution for oil passage problem, Im going to plug up the hole with a bolt that will just go past the part where it has gone throught the hole for the dizzy putting on some pratley steel to ensure no oil leaks past it, I will have to fit a t-piece for the oil sender to allow for the pressure switch and oil feed to the turbo. I have a VDO oil pressure guage but I'm not sure what sender unit to use to make it work, obviously the sender unit that is normally used for the idiot light wont work.

I assembled the casing halves with the crank, cam & flywheel, and she spins so smoothly Tonight I will put the conrods, sleeves & pistons on. I'll need to get hold of an adjustable pushrod to mock up the valve geometry, another few things need to be done still like re-assembling the alternator, electr dizzzy, the Dellorto needs a clean and assemble and so on. Hopefully by the weekend I will be able to fit it to the car.

[Tony Z]

vdo makes senders which their gauges are calibrated to

good luck with the build

[Bratjie]

This week I started reassembling the engine by adding the balanced conrods pistons and liner's, brand new Mahle's std size. All is balanced and the valve train is chromoly, heads ported and polished with new valves, guides, high rev springs with the 1.25:1 rockers . Have to fit the fuel system with rising rate press regulator and pressure guages,
A few odd's and ends to be done, like A/F ratio meter and Co sensor, oil pressure guage, boost guage, fuel pressure guages and various other goodies to be fitted still but I'm getting there slowly, I have mocked up the exhaust and turbo, turbo sits at a bit of an angle but I guess it should be fine
The oil drain on the turbo is lower than the valve covers due to the tuck away exhaust system, will have to somehow make a plan to drain the oil properly, I hear if the oil does not drain from the turbo properly it can cause the engine to smoke, so yeah.
The rocker geometry still get's me, I have to cut the cromoly pushrods to lenght but it's one of those things that you rather leave because you dont exactly know how to do it and find something else to do instead, but I suppose I'll gather the gut's and do it sometime.Also fitted a tripple switch with engine start button in the dash just to look flashy

talking too much again, I should be in the garage working, feel free to chip in an make suggestions, oh and don't mind the colourscheme, it WILL be changed

Later!

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[Bratjie]

gjhgjhgjdh This aint no easy job!!!

[Bratjie]

This may be a difficult mod??? second picture shows a more or less straight line parralel to the casing and the turbo return line, see the two black lines?, ( not sure if I can drill into that part of the casing?), the first photo to a dowel I may be able to tap into as it sits just below the oil drain line from the turbo?

Other than fitting an external oil filter & housing I see no other way, budget is gone and I have to make it run as is or else dump the project!!!

Anybody with a plan please let me now???

[4agedub]

Pity you don't have a t3 casing with external filler hole, you would've been able to drain into it...

Tapping into the casing at the oil gallery is not a good idea as the oil pump receives oil from that gallery... I think. You can however drill and tap into the piece of casing where the t3 oil filler would've sat. Just check it out properly before you drill.

[4agedub]

[Bratjie]

Pity you don't have a t3 casing with external filler hole, you would've been able to drain into it...

Tapping into the casing at the oil gallery is not a good idea as the oil pump receives oil from that gallery... I think. You can however drill and tap into the piece of casing where the t3 oil filler would've sat. Just check it out properly before you drill.

Drilling and tapping? This is gonna cause the engine to be re-opened? Not something I want to do right now, not since it has'nt even started yet

Any other ideas guy's, I know there's someone out there with the perfect solution

[4agedub]

Perfect solution... move the turbo higher and drain into the tappet cover