Aircooled VW South Africa

@Sean, nothing like some good encouragement to keep him going.
He obviously wants a bit more power and is trying to keep it aircooled.

D - I fit a linkage spring between where the accelerator cable meets the linkage and somewhere else which can help pull the linkage back to "zero" position and helps returning the carbs to proper idle. On my bus I fit it to the top of the engine bay. 2 or 3 springs in series keep the tension without increasing the pedal pressure as you press the pedal. 1 spring just gets too heavy as the pedal is pressed.
If that doesnt help you get back to idle, then check the linkage again, I've often found that if the one carb doesnt return to zero, its actually because the linkage is getting restricted by the other carb. Disconnect the linkage to check if the carb does return without it connected or not.

Will try, I think I messed up the obvious somewhere.
Looking at this video again I must be doing something wrong - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIalPvnYCB8

@TonyZ what was your default/base settings on these carbs and how was the initial dizzy position set for idling.
With higher rpms the dizzy is already advancing and giving a reading of 14BTDC at 1200rpms.

I think I need to re look the timing, but not sure how to set the initial timing, perhaps just taking it up to max advance set it to 28 degrees and let it idle wherever it comes down to ?

Each time I do it I seem to do something slightly different. But generally I set the idle without the linkage attached. Then synch the carbs and get the idle speed right.
Attach linkage and make sure you can get full throttle and idle at the same time, synch the carbs using the linkage. And ensure you are not adjusting the idle setup. This overhead linkage system takes a lot of faffing which is why I am not overly fond of it, even though I do use it. Once you get it right, its right.

For the timing, if you have the right advance setup on your dizzy (16deg I think), then set it to 28 and dont worry about where it idles.

What was supposed to be a weekend job has now been going on for more than a year.

I knew this day would come the first time I removed this bolt. I needed to replace the gearbox mounting rubbers as the gearbox was hanging to one side and those rubbers being vrot verby. Out comes the bolt and loads of gunk. Now I need to somehow get thread in there in order to be able to mount my gearbox.

This is what it looks like when the bolt is just pushed in, this is where the thread starts.
What is my options here ? Redrill and tap to bigger size ?

Rather put in a thread insert. And not a helicoil.

I could not find a self cutting thread insert that was the right size.
The one I did manage to find was not heavy duty enough.

Ended up drilling the existing hole to 18.5mm and then tapped it to 20mm.
New bolt and no more worries.



Finally time for the engine to go back in.

Donovan D wrote: ↑Wed Feb 06, 2019 8:43 am I could not find a self cutting thread insert that was the right size.
The one I did manage to find was not heavy duty enough.

Ended up drilling the existing hole to 18.5mm and then tapped it to 20mm.
New bolt and no more worries.



Finally time for the engine to go back in.

Are you coming to George with us Donovan?

Just quickly put the motor back and hit the road man.

sean wrote: ↑Wed Feb 06, 2019 9:31 am
Are you coming to George with us Donovan?

If only it was that easy, unfortunately I have to work.

Managed to sort out a bit more over the weekend and get it driving again.
Still some snags to sort.

Fitted the fuel pump underneath the fuel tank (not the engine - edit) away from anything and connected it via relay to the coil.



What I did notice while being underneath is that the accelerator cable is right up against the gearbox, and have actually started to make a groove in the box. Also replaced the bowden tube as the previous one was much longer with a massive bend in it.


A bit of tidying up the old wires, still a bit to do.





Took it for a test drive and the difference is incredible, feels as though its got a lot more oomph with the dual 36 IDF's.
The throttle is very responsive and it goes.

The kombi does bounce up and down quite a bit, can this be caused by possible flat spots on the tires as the kombi has been standing in one spot for more than a year?

Hi Donovan, is that a CB distributor or an MSD and which one? Mind sharing why you choose it.

Which carb linkage and air filter brand are you using?

Donovan D wrote: ↑Mon Feb 25, 2019 9:48 am ............. Also replaced the bowden tube as the previous one was much longer with a massive bend in it.

...

D the Bowden tube must have a bend in it, and I find that 25 to 35 mm is fine for a std motor, but that it will hop with a more powerful motor, I have gone to 45 to 50 mm on mine and it is fine, just grease it well.

Herman

Riaan.N wrote: ↑Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:19 am Hi Donovan, is that a CB distributor or an MSD and which one? Mind sharing why you choose it.

Which carb linkage and air filter brand are you using?

Magnaspark distributor, fuel pump, coil and carb linkage/manifold kit are all from CB.

My old distributor would jump up by a mm and then not work, TonyZ advertised the CB distributor for sale and after reading up on some forums I decided to get it as they seem to be solid units. I only drove the kombi around the block a couple of times, still need to get some distance on the setup but so far Im happy.

retrovan wrote: ↑Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:46 am

Donovan D wrote: ↑Mon Feb 25, 2019 9:48 am ............. Also replaced the bowden tube as the previous one was much longer with a massive bend in it.

...

D the Bowden tube must have a bend in it, and I find that 25 to 35 mm is fine for a std motor, but that it will hop with a more powerful motor, I have gone to 45 to 50 mm on mine and it is fine, just grease it well.

Herman

There is a bend, more of a slope in it, I think it is was just over the 25mm. I used the manual picture as guideline. Are you saying the bend is not enough and you're referring to the 'hop' Im feeling on the wheels ?

Donovan D wrote: ↑Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:57 am

Riaan.N wrote: ↑Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:19 am Hi Donovan, is that a CB distributor or an MSD and which one? Mind sharing why you choose it.

Which carb linkage and air filter brand are you using?

Magnaspark distributor, fuel pump, coil and carb linkage/manifold kit are all from CB.

My old distributor would jump up by a mm and then not work, TonyZ advertised the CB distributor for sale and after reading up on some forums I decided to get it as they seem to be solid units. I only drove the kombi around the block a couple of times, still need to get some distance on the setup but so far Im happy.

Ok, thank you.

I would say you are right about the wheels having created a flat spots because it stood to long. If the tyres are not too old, it may go away if the tyres gets to normal operating temp and driven for a bit. I had a colleague at work with whom this happened... he was a motorcycle rider and his bakkie would the stand for long periods at a time.

Donovan D wrote: ↑Mon Feb 25, 2019 11:05 am

retrovan wrote: ↑Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:46 am

Donovan D wrote: ↑Mon Feb 25, 2019 9:48 am ............. Also replaced the bowden tube as the previous one was much longer with a massive bend in it.

...

D the Bowden tube must have a bend in it, and I find that 25 to 35 mm is fine for a std motor, but that it will hop with a more powerful motor, I have gone to 45 to 50 mm on mine and it is fine, just grease it well.

Herman

There is a bend, more of a slope in it, I think it is was just over the 25mm. I used the manual picture as guideline. Are you saying the bend is not enough and you're referring to the 'hop' Im feeling on the wheels ?

Capture.JPG

Its more of a shudder that you get when you release the clutch from a pull away.

no not when you driving.

Herman