Fuel injection rebuild

[Simmy]

It's been another while since the last post. Couldn't get back into it after having to send the heads back for the third time. But they were done eventually...

Finally managed to get the long block together this weekend. Still need to set the valve lash this week (0 lash for chromoly?)

Sourced some spring shims to protect the heads and hopefully remove one source of metal particulates from the system.


Swapped out the wire circlips for snap rings. Deburred them and made sure they all went in with the rounded edge facing the wrist pin.




Don't forget the baffles!!!! Please excuse the judicious use of sealant....


Read somewhere that a bit if copper slip on the sealing surface was a good idea. (I think Impi?)


And there we have it! Seems like it's mostly downhill from here...


I have partially fitted the rear brace. Unfortunately the one set of brackets need to be bent a little, but I will put together a separate post on that.

[Tony Z]

Progress!! Whoo hoo.
I was wondering about you a few days ago...
Keep it up

[Simmy]

Progress!! Whoo hoo.
I was wondering about you a few days ago...

I wonder about me most of the time...

But yes! Progress!

[Riaan.N]

Looks GREAT

Maybe have a look at Loctite 577 thread sealer




There are nuts with what seems to be a good quality seal built in.... don’t know about it’s ability to be useable as a nut that must be torqued.

https://www.boellhoff.com/de-en/product ... -lock.php

[fourier]

(0 lash for chromoly?)

Yes zero lash for chromoly, but push rod should still be able to spin freely between your finger tips...

[Wentzel]

Glad to see some progress. Can't wait to hear it running.

[Simmy]

Maybe have a look at Loctite 577 thread sealer

I actually have some 517, which is a pipe sealant. I have used it on all the gallery plugs. I dont think it is suitable as a thread lock. Interestingly normal Blue Loctite is listed as a thread sealant and thread lock simultaneously. When sealing the heads and case, I just put some of the case sealand under the washers and on the underside of the nuts. I figure those are the 3 areas for oil leak, so if you cover them, then chances are good that oil leaks will be minimised.

Yes zero lash for chromoly, but push rod should still be able to spin freely between your finger tips...

Thanks! I did just that last night. Just as you feel the resistance, back it off just the tiniest amount and then lock it.

Glad to see some progress. Can't wait to hear it running.

Thanks! Looking forward to that moment as well. I hope you have managed to carve out some time for yours as well

[Tony Z]

under the washers you'll be better off with something like permantex ultra black

[Riaan.N]

I didn’t know that about the Blue Loctite....maybe I should read the labels

[Simmy]

I didn’t know that about the Blue Loctite....maybe I should read the labels

At some point I had to be able to teach someone on the forum something

under the washers you'll be better off with something like permantex ultra black

I am sure you are right, but I am sure its better than nothing... I have been quite impressed with the Victor Reinz sealant. It seems to flow well and it doesnt skin over and set as rapidly. Time will tell if my theories are valid...

[Tony Z]

That Victor Reinz sealant, from what I can make out, is pretty much the same as the Permatex Ultra black
I only use Ultra Black now, its doing quite well, better than the loctite grey I used to use.

[Wentzel]

I use Victor Reinz these days also seems to work good but our engines will be the proof.

Busy with my engine too hoping to get it running soon.

[Simmy]

Couple more updates. The tinware is mostly on, ancillaries in place and everything seems to fit. Only issue is the new manifold just catches the underside of the alternator stand, so will need to fiddle that around.





I decided to fit some U-channel rubber on the edges to help seal and prevent rattles. Stainless fasteners used where I can.


There were some gaps between the fan shroud and the cylinder time which I closed with some spacers.
Before, they were just tightened up which broke some of the spot welds.


Thermostat in place and set.

[Tony Z]

I hope that is going into a beach buggy.
I doubt that those fuel lines will fit into an engine bay the way you have them now

[Simmy]

Nope. In a normal bug. The headers/fuel rails will have to go in after the engine is in place, but as far as I can tell, it will still fit....
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... p?t=712832

The lines can still rotate quite a bit, and they are just arbitrarily fitted right now.