Aircooled VW South Africa

Today i set the valve clearance on the engine, made sure the timing was right, changed the oil and set the carb ... definitely made a difference. She is now purrrrring.

Before i did all the work, last week wednesday or so my oil light failed to come on when i turned to ignition (it was working 100% before) i checked the bulb and wire to the oil pressure switch which was fine so i thought it would have to be the oil pressure switch. When i went to get my gaskets and all from Goldwagen i bought a new oil pressure switch which i installed today ... when i turn the ignition on the light still doesnt come on but when the bug has started and the revs go up (i would imagine to about 1500 - 2000rpm) the light comes on and then goes back off again when the revs drop ... on the back of the new pressure switch it says 1.6 - 2.0 bar . Im confused!! its as if the light is coming on to tell me that i have oil pressure instead of coming on to tell me that i dont have oil pressure! please.

for one you bought the wrong pressure switch.
Unlike what the spares guys say, they are not all the same. The beetle one is about 0.8 bar but I cant remember correctly.
And you better hope it isnt the bulb, I have spent ages looking for somewhere to buy new ones...

Tony Z wrote:for one you bought the wrong pressure switch.
Unlike what the spares guys say, they are not all the same. The beetle one is about 0.8 bar but I cant remember correctly.
And you better hope it isnt the bulb, I have spent ages looking for somewhere to buy new ones...

Thanks for the info Tony Z, much appreciated! Definitely not the bulb as it works in the alternators slot. But not good news that they're like hens teeth!
Will have to find the correct switch now.

I got new oil pressure switches 80 PSI R95 each s hipping R25

calooker wrote:I got new oil pressure switches 80 PSI R95 each s hipping R25

Hey calooker, would that be the correct one for my '76 1600 L ... 80 PSI is 5.5 bar which contradicts Tony Z's assumption of 0.8 bar ?
I paid R30 for the wrong one from Goldwagen ... would be willing to purchase a switch from you if i know its the correct one.

Under correction but these are the pressures I have....

Pressure at 2500rpm = 3Kg/sq cm
Minimum pressure = 2 Kg/sq cm
Pressure switch to open at 0.15 to 0.45 Kg /sq cm

Hope it helps...

Herman

retrovan wrote:Under correction but these are the pressures I have....

Pressure at 2500rpm = 3Kg/sq cm
Minimum pressure = 2 Kg/sq cm
Pressure switch to open at 0.15 to 0.45 Kg /sq cm

Hope it helps...

Herman

Thanks Herman. That does make sense. 2kg/ sq cm converted is just under 2 bar. So as long as my oil light is on with this pressure switch it should be fine. Until i can get the correct switch which opens at your stated pressure. Thanks again.

The light seems to be coming on at idle now aswell.

The blue lady's body is now for sale if anyone is interested ... complete body with all interior (excluding headlining) and exterior, windows etc. as per pics on the first page. I am so happy with the buggy that I am not interested at putting the beetle body back on. Or to swop for what have you ... (buggy wise).

hi there,

I just read your project story,

When are you updating what is going on with "olive"? looks like a real lekker buggy!!

MrHappypants wrote:The blue lady's body is now for sale if anyone is interested ... complete body with all interior (excluding headlining) and exterior, windows etc. as per pics on the first page. I am so happy with the buggy that I am not interested at putting the beetle body back on. Or to swop for what have you ... (buggy wise).

I had a strong feeling this would happen, I have a 58 ghia and a beamish buggy, I would gladly get rid of the ghia but never the buggy. Too much fun

Ja well no ok fine ok fine!

So I have still got the blue lady, aaaaaaaand a welder (Tradeweld MIG 200) and compressor now!

I have been playing around with the welder (my first time welding) and what a dream to weld with, compared to...well you know, the countless other welders I've never used!
Made a few braai grids and so on but have not had the courage to start on the beetle's bodywork yet. I would first like to weld a couple of thin sheet metal pieces to practice!

Dirty-Eddi stopped charging himself a while back and a few weeks ago I decided to take the alternator off ... quite a job but its out! Then I had to take the fan off the alternator, I think to myself 'MOER, that's a big nut' and proceed to measure. I don't have a 36mm socket! ...and that's where the alternator stood for a few weeks...on the workbench...

Today I decided was the day! That nut is coming off, so I can get the alternator refurbed...all the shops around here that I went to only seem to sell a size 32mm socket as the largest. So I thought id take a look around the second hand shops, might get lucky! ...and SUCCESS. Not a socket, but an angled ring spanner(haha, is that what its called??)... in elkgeval it worked! and only cost 50 cash monies

So, where to take the alternator? Is there a place in PE that does an ''exchange this non working one for a refurbed one'' or do I take it somewhere to get refurbed...if so where? ...just a normal auto-electrision?

Will be cleaning and painting the fan housing and other bits I can get to while the alternator is off ...also, Dirty-Eddi's idling is not lekker, sometimes high, sometimes low, sometimes none ... Iv tried my best to sort it out following the procedure in the haynes manual and reading info offline but it does not make a difference .... is there perhaps an airleak somewhere? or perhaps I just need to re-do the carb with a kit?

Olive is still sitting under the carport, on a rusted rolling chassis, waiting patiently!

Took the carb off which wasnt on very tight, and the gasket had fuel on it, so Im sure air was getting in there. Bought a rebuild kit, will be doing that job as soon as I have some time...but... I read that if the throttle shaft as any play on it, its not even worth rebuilding the carb and should be tossed away ... I have play on the shaft! if anyone can confirm this info? and any thoughts as to where I should go from here... Thanks.

EDIT: Carb is a Solex 34PICT-3

If the shaft is OK, have the bushes made, or if the shaft is toast, then make them both, only a few bucks at a turning shop.

Better then spending R3000 on a new Chines EMPI replacement.

Herman

retrovan wrote:If the shaft is OK, have the bushes made, or if the shaft is toast, then make them both, only a few bucks at a turning shop.

Better then spending R3000 on a new Chines EMPI replacement.

Herman

Thanks for the reply Herman! I will do that.

Had the fan housing and fan sandblasted and powder coated ... came out quite nice besides the pitting from rust in certain areas. A bit more durable than me spraying it I would think.