Aircooled VW South Africa

Thanks I got basically the same list and 10 to 1 more other bits

Good luck Bugger,

please keep in mind that I am not "blingging" my fasty

These are the only chrome parts on the car, as my coulor is to be mainly Red body, with black promenent, with a little chrome,

Removing all the chrome beeding around the windows as well, to highlite the black rubber, allso removing the overriders, so they will be new and forsale, with some other things.....

till later

Hi All,

Glad I decided to fully remove the Red paint, filler primer, original Black paint stopping on the original primer.
As can be seen on the photo, there is rust under the original paint, which has destroyed the top layers.

As you can see I am using the heat gun and scrapper to remove the old paint.

Now the paint is going....

Going.....

Not yet Gone..
Motor on its way back, Hit a speed bump, now its a 2000 cc.

Well till next time....

Good luck on that paint, looks like a AWFUL job...LOL

cool, keep the pics coming !

Hi All,
At last the dreaded RED Cracked paint is gone. all Gone......


The body now ready for the Paint shop


The Painted (ready to install) tree is growing


Have to find the best Spray Shop in PE, Do not want
Well till next time.....

Hi All,
The motor is back and looks GREAT....

The Body panels have been sandblasted, and will be going to E-Coating. (same as base coat on new cars)
On return, they will join the body at Spray Paint. The colour you all ask at once... is GM red. Yes I know you do not spell VW .. G .M.. but I like this colour, as it is true red and not a tint of orange.

As I only know the old 1966 Fasty that I had, I was overjoyed to find that the 1968 model had mod cons in it.
I noticed that the rear brake drums were OIL cooled, this was a great discovery......

Opened the brake drum to change the oil, ..... only to find that there is no MOD CONS but only an leaking side shaft seal... Oh Well.. we will fix it and go on..

The other point I am glad about, was that I would not have to rebuild the body from scratch, as I was sure the body was built upside down, only to find it was only the previous owner, had fitted the front shocks upside down, few.. what a relief.

I have decided that I will make the mechanics drivable, Spray the body, and do the interior fully complete, and then fit the engine.
After test driving it, will find out if the gearbox should be geared up for the extra power, as we do not want the engine to over rev, on normal cruising.
Then and only then will I renew the mechanics that need renewing.
Will post pic's of e-coated parts, prior to shipping to Spray Painter.

Till next time...................

Nice to see that you're doing this properly.....................nice work.

Thanks...

Working for a strict Boss.... that only wants it RIGHT....

.......ME

As you know, I am fitting a type 4 upgraded to 2000 into my 68 Fastback.
Today I turned up the Release bearing slide tube that will be tapped into the old spiggot shaft oil seal seat.

This will allow me to fit the post 71 Release bearing, and fork to my old 68 gearbox.

And this will allow me to use the multi finger Pressure plate on the 2000 motor.

As can be seen, I have Machined the cone to receive 2 (two) oilseals, as the outer diameter has been reduced, and now the std. oilseals only go as wide as 7 mm. This will prevent oil leaks onto the cluch plate due to hi power output by the 2000 motor. ( Note to self) Just make sure that you pack grease in between seals for lubrication of the 2nd seal.


Also Machined step in location seat to clear step in gearbox, this will allow the 2nd seal a full seat into cone.
The most important thing was to allow clearance on the clutch side for the clutch plate bush to enter the cone.

Do you guys want me to post drawing with dimentions on this thread....
let me know....

Those conversion sleeves work very well, have got one in my fastback's gearbox too so that I could use a standard 200mm multi finger clutchplate with the newer type of bearing.

I also have another one made by a fellow forum member that uses on oil seal and an O ring to seal tightly. Will be keeping that for a future project.

Hi All
Here pic's of sand blasted parts that have come back from E-Coating.

No Rust inside or out, these will now last a another 43 years




Now we off to the Spray Shop, will post pic's of car when loaded on trailer,
The paint is off and the underside is pre-rubberrised, a little off the paint line.
This as well as the inside of all loose parts will be fully rubberised on return from painting

Hi All,
Short note to say All tin in to spray,

Good news ... Got seats back, and they look great, but what do you think ...






Till next time....

Cool, this project is really progressing at speed !

The pics of the body panels : Were the panels in primer in the photos, or did the sand blaster apply the primer?

Was there any warping that occurred ?

Thanks for the pics and updates

jolas wrote: Cool, this project is really progressing at speed !

The pics of the body panels : Were the panels in primer in the photos, or did the sand blaster apply the primer?

Was there any warping that occurred ?

Thanks for the pics and updates

Hi Jolas,
Thank you.

The body I removed the paint by hand with heatgun and scraper. Sand blasting takes to much steel off, and exposes new areas to rust that you cannot get to, to recoat it again. Inside areas I spray with Rustcoverter and cover with tectyl(liquid wax)
The panels had so much surface rust that I had them Sandblasted, BUT I paid the Blaster chappie extra, to blast from far away, so as not to damage the surface,Therefor I got no warping.
THEN we toke them to a company that works for the auto manufactures, and had them derusted to take out the pitholes of rust.
Then they E_Coated them(this is what they do on new car parts so that hiden sections do not rust) in a tank that is electricly charged to make the coating(much like powder coating) stick to the metal
Then they bake it in a oven for 45min at 200Deg. C, This bakes the coating and seals the surface so no oxygen canget to the metal, to start the rust again..... few... Here endith the lesson...
It helps if you make equipment for the motor industries.