Aircooled VW South Africa

Farhaad wrote:those wooden dropsides looks better than the orig. ones. looks so good i think vw should have made it an option

There was a wide-body wooden gate option offered on German-built split single cabs.

Dawie wrote:Think you can use the clamp nut from a baywindow on the front stubaxle. It may actually work better than the two nuts againt each other, where the locking plate can break and may be hard to find.

The nut from a later box-shape kombi may also work. It was designed to be pinched over a groove. This should still be available from the agents.

Thanks Dawie, will investigate that

Work progresses slowly - but getting there. I've had the rims and bumpers sand blasted and sprayed them yesterday.
Today my friend Pieter and I tackled a section of rust on the cross member between the two front jacking points. This is just to get me through the
roadworthy, as it became evident as we poked aound that some more serious work will be needed later. I don't understand how it can be so rotten here when the rest of the chassis (even the battery tray!) is so solid ?

The rusted section (we later discoverd more rust above )


The rusted section removed



Pieter made this up in his work shop


He had to make it in 2 halfs in order to fit more easily


We had to use rivets for now, welding would'nt have worked in this case


For now, I'll paint over the lot with a sealer, hopefully it will go though roadworthy. After that I'll have to replace the whole thing.
What is the correct name of this chassis member, why is it made of such thin metal (yeah I know it's a Fleetline), does it play a
structural role ?

hi, what sealer will you use?

Is thst stainless steel?

Did you use poprivits?

What paint did u use for the bumper and rims?
What primer did u used? Did you took off thetires before painting and sand blasted the rims?

Hi Louis
I want to use a sealer just to "hide" the "patch-work" for now, so probably a bitumen/tar type sealer, haven't thought about the rest of the chassis yet, definetly needs a coat of chassis paint.
Not stainless steel, just galvinized plate.
Yes used rivets, was'nt enough "healthy" metal to weld onto.
Yes removed tyres from rims for sand blasting, started sandblasting myself, but changed my mind halfway through the first rim.
Just used 2k gloss black for rims and bumpers. Not so happy with the results of the rims, they're quite difficult to spray paint - any tips ?

Use a touch-up spray gun to paint rims with. Normal spray gun gives a wide spray pattern and that makes it difficult to paint wheels with...

Tks Blizkrieg, like an airbrush gun/set-up ?

Similar, it's bigger than a normal airbrush. Just go to your local store where you buy your supplies from and ask them for a gravity feed touch up spray gun. Works well

Hey thanks Blitzkrieg, not really clued up on these matters, would that still be high pressure spraying ?
Cheers

rims and bumper - bumper has to be resprayed, a strong wind came up and blew the trestle table over

Ooh, hate it when that happens. Looks like an awesome build though

Hi Jolas

Now I know where Mark's S/C went,, All the best with this project of yours,,

Love this thread.....

On the question of part number for the cross member......

TAB-401-830-HD - OE HEAVY-DUTY ORANGE - REAR CROSSMEMBER - BUS 50-67 @ $33 from the USofA

Here's the link http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... 2D830%2DHD

And here is the front cross member TAB-401-820 - FRONT CROSSMEMBER - BUS 50-67 - Link http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... D401%2D820 at a very reasonable $26 from the USofA

FRANK !!!!! Howzit man !! Hope all is bright and sunny your side
Thanks so much for the part/s info, will definetly be needing to replace front cross member soon, very strange how that
is so rusted and nothing else. Thanks for the link. Hope you and the family are well as with Mo and the Beetle

Johan, yes it was Mark's bus, big plans for it once it goes through roadworthy. Still a few things to be done though ....

Cheers