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Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 11:27 pm
by Chris
Seeing that I'm on my own,I kept myself busy on the site. :twisted:

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 11:28 pm
by hitlers revenge
IM just popping in and out looking for new posts.

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 11:29 pm
by Chris
Well,I posted a few.hehe

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 11:36 pm
by hitlers revenge
What in your opinion is the correct way to bleed brakes. I start at the cylinder furthest from the master and work around. this is done by opening each bleeder.and using a piece if pipe into a small bottle with some brake fluid in and pumping the pedal until all the air is out of the system. I think I have now cut my problems down to one wheel. How or what is the easiest way to see if you have a hole in the pipe work bearing in mind I dont see any leaking brake fluid. And how do you know if your master cylinder is faulty. I dont believe mine is as I said before 3 wheels seem to be OK.

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 11:42 pm
by Chris
Have you opened up said wheel yet?May be you have a slow leak.What happens is that the brakes will fade overnight while the car is standing,so you wont see a leak as such.

The brakecyl.could have pit marks in it ,then it slowly loses pressure.

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 11:46 pm
by vader
Is that what is happening to the wheel? Loosing pressure? whats it doing?

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 11:47 pm
by hitlers revenge
OOPS!! I forgot to mention I now have disc's all round, so I dont have the standard wheel cylinder.

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 11:49 pm
by vader
well on the other hand Darren.....

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 11:49 pm
by Chris
Do you have disc vibration when you drive,iow,does the brake pads rattle?

Posted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 11:59 pm
by Tony Z
if the calipers are old, you may need to have the faulty one reconditioned...
What exactly is your problem with the brakes?

Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 12:00 am
by Chris
How is the cold tonight,Tony?

Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 12:10 am
by Tony Z
still there, but getting better. At least I was able to study today, yday and wednesday I couldnt even read...

Thanks for asking

Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 12:13 am
by Chris
Sh!t time to have a cold.When's the exams over?

Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 12:15 am
by hitlers revenge
4king hell my daughters new rabbit decided to go for a swim at this time of the morning. back to the subject. unknowns to me i had a buggered rear wheel bearing with oil running onto the rear disc. The brake pedal worked fine and then started a strange behavior as follows. I would apply brakes evenly but the braking would actually fade and then return and without adjusting my foot pressure on the pedal the grab and fade would repeat itself. I then decided to put discs all round and since that day I have not been able to get the air out of the system. As I said it now seems that there is a problem with the right front which is nearest the master cylinder. Once all the air is out and you get no bubbles in your bleeder bottle the pedal is quite tight. But give it a few minutes rest and the pedal goes back to the floor. You then need to build up pressure by pumping the brake pedal once or twice. Hopr this explains my problem.

Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 12:21 am
by Chris
It sounds like the pod seal is defective.I would ,for ,safety sake,open the caliper,and check if the seal is still ok.Als check the brake pad thickness.If you are running a golf setup,it might be that the pads may be too thick.Remember,there are two thicknesses on those pads.