Aircooled VW South Africa

13 and 14 is the numbers used for the assembly in the VW Manuel.


*Bolt M8 fits in hole 13 and 14*

Chris wrote:13 and 14 is the numbers used for the assembly in the VW Manuel.


*Bolt M8 fits in hole 13 and 14*

Thanks Chris, that makes sense. So it is something like 'build by numbers'?

Oh, and just for the record:

Manuel



manual

Oops sorry,manual.

If you take the paint off,you'll see the numbers on the body too.Paint by numbers

13 vw type 1 beetle
14 vw Karmann Ghia
different clock positions for the steering collumn as the ghia steering shaft lies flatter than the beetle
there will be a blob on the beam to hold that notch
Type three steering boxes have the same 31 vs 34
Armand

Mmmm interesting...

Pine grapgat

Update 12/11/2008 - Up, up and away!

I have found the perfect engine for the buggy, will go and have a look at it tomorrow - looks like a bargain at R 120K

Newly overhauled Lycoming O-360 A1A for Sale. Hollow crank - ready for constant speed or fixed pitch propeller. Dyna-focal engine mounts ideal for RV's, Sportsman 2+2, Glasair and many other homebuilts. Hrs SMOH 0. New light weight Sky-Tech starter. New light weight alternator. New Harness kit. New mags. 100 Hour Warranty by Superior Millenium Aircraft Engines. Can be used in the certified category but add R15,000 for certification. Will ship anywhere in SA for free.

Pine wrote: 100 Hour Warranty by Superior Millenium Aircraft Engines.

[/quote]

Isn't this what is called an oxymoron,or irony...?

"I was flying along,minding my own bussines,and it just cut out!Can you fix it please!"

Update 16/11/08:



Started yesterday seperating the blue Sand Shark body from the chassis. With the front suspension and wheels removed, it is quite easy to turn it on its side, and support it with a piece of water pipe to make working underneath it more easier. I had no intention of using the original chassis anyway, but what I saw underneath was totally shocking

The front part has rusted through completely, most probably due to a leaking master cylinder, brake fluid dissolving the paint on the inside, and the rust worm getting a serious grip with its teeth on the bare metal:




The rear part is even worse. The chassis shortening wasn't done very well, and the front and the rear halves were about to be seperated again. You can even see the inner cables through the gaps




I don't think I need to go into the exact detail of how dangerous this is, but luckily the replacement chassis will be shortened professionally. Driving around with half a car might have worked for 007, but most certainly not for yours truly...

Luckily you are doing properly, someone else might have bought it and used on the roads....I'm sure that it would have flown through the roadworthy certification process....

Update 16/11/08 (2):

I have found it impossible to loosen the bolts keeping the body and chassis together, so have decided to cut them off with the angle grinder. Unfortunately Hunny was using the extension lead, so I couldn't reach the buggy with the angle grinder, so I will proceed in the week (if it doesn't rain).

Put the steering box together (actually a lot easier than I thought), and will see if I can take it to Werner Alker or Dirk in the week for replacing of the seals and bearings, and re-greasing.

Continued with wire brushing all the suspension parts to the bare metal. There is no ways that I'm just gonna cover the entire suspension with a thick coat of paint, as I said the focus of this project will be detailing of the small parts. I am not sure if the suspension parts are all carbon steel (read: rust if not covered), but I'll paint it anyway - individually, of course.



Disassembled the altenator, cleaned it and got a new regulator. Bearings and brushes seems fine. Did a mock-setup of the altenator, battery, regulator and idiot light on the bench, and when I spin the altenator with the hand drill, the light goes out, indicating charge. Will have it checked at an auto electrician anyway



Speaking of electrics - I'll be using an original Beetle 12-fuse fusebox for HW2, one I've had for a long time. Personally I prefer the 'capsule'-type fuses, rather than the modern 'blade'-type fuses, although the 'capsules' are getting a bit more difficult to find these days. Cleaned the fuse box, and cleared all the terminals with steel wool for good contact. Looking for a clear numbered fuse box cover, if anyone can help?



Also found an old Golf indicator and wiper stalk assembly, with a brand new key barrel. The indicator arm cancels when the steering wheel is corrected, and the steering lock also works. The advantage of using this setup is that I can connect the electric window washer to it (pull to spray), as well as the wiper switch. Looking for the protective plastic cover that goes over it, as well as the plugs that go into the terminals on the sides.



Got the steering wheel back from the electroplaters last week, after having it chromed as a birthday present (to Pine, from Pine ) and took it to Speedline for re-covering, hopefully getting it back tomorrow!

That steering wheel looks awesome!!
Pine, are you going to be doing the wiring yourself?

I'm gonna see how far I get with it on my own, sticking to the original VW loom and wire colours. Theoretically it should be 'plug and play', but since I have a few modifications it will be a bit more of a challenge. Will probably do a mock setup outside the buggy to see if everything works. Pre-set conditions I have, that I will follow closely will be the following:

- The dash will only have 2 switches, namely the light switch, with dimmer and hazard (ex-Bay)
- The oil warning idiot light inside the Porsche gauge will flash when operating
- By using the Golf stalks, dim/bright switch will be by simply pulling the lever
- Electric window washer, as mentioned before, also operated from stalk on steering column
- Horn operated from button on steering wheel, not seperate switch
- It will have a hidden 12V outlet for the GPS, cellphone charger, (or mobile espresso machine, handheld spotlight, radar jammer or whatever etc.)
- The buggy will also have a reverse light, as HW1 had
- It will have a trailer plug, hidden on the front suspension, for towing. Like a slave cable, the buggie's lights will work from whichever car is towing it
- GPS receiver/GSM transceiver unit to be integrated with my company Fleet Management software
- Another 'secret' gadget, as carried over from HW1 - not a lot of people were aware of it, but those who saw it simply loved it!

One of the challenges of wiring a buggy, is that every single electric component needs to be earthed. Unlike a Beetle where everthing screwed or bolted to the body or chassis is automatically earthed, with a non-conductive fibreglass body an additional earth needs to provided for the lights, horn, indicators etc.

Pine wrote:With the front suspension and wheels removed, it is quite easy to turn it on its side, and support it with a piece of water pipe to make working underneath it more easier.

Seriously? Well, that qualifies for a Darwin Award, I'm sorry.......