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Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 6:01 pm
by Hloni
rouxlouis wrote:Hi Hloni
My heart really goes out to you........
There sure is a lot of work to her...
Best of luck!!
Nah, not really hey. The body is going to be recycled (I am doin my part for global warming), keeping chassis and building LWB beach buggy
Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 6:05 pm
by Hloni
Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 6:57 pm
by retrovan
Hi,
Try leave the steering box on the pan with the front beam.
Leave the steering shaft on the body
Disconnect the flexible connection (Round rubber type dick) all 4 bolts, see pic.
That is after the collapsible section and before the steering box.
Take the tank out 1st, this will make it easy.....
Hope it helps
Herman
Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 7:53 pm
by buggyfan
Disconnect the flexible connection (Round rubber type dick)
Herman[/quote]
Im sure you meant DISC!
Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 8:01 pm
by Hloni
Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 8:04 pm
by Hloni
Will check that in the morning, the round rubber type dick.
Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 8:19 pm
by Hloni
Braved the weather and went outside. The rubber disc's bolts have no heads!! They are round, kinaa domed?! l will post some pics in the morning.
Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 8:32 pm
by 1972
Right above the disk, is a C looking clamp if you loosen that and loosen off your steering wheel bolt you should be able to pull the steering shaft up and then you will be sorted.
Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 8:37 pm
by Hloni
Already removed the c clamp at top of calapsing shaft. The big 28/32 spanner bolt holding the steering then bob be my cousin?
Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 8:44 pm
by Pine
(This is the same reply I gave to you on TheSamba)
adriaan pienaar wrote:You will need to completely remove the fuel tank from the bodyshell to get access to the steering box and coupler. The coupler is a large rubber disk that absorbs vibration from your wheels, and also allows for some flex between the steering shaft and the steering box. I believe it is also called a rag joint, as it has 'fibre' reinforcing moulded into the rubber to give it more strength and to prevent it from breaking suddenly. It is inbetween the steering box and the steering shaft. It has two metal fittings riveted together, and seperating them from the steering box and steering shaf will be difficult, especially if they were last joined in the factory. The electric wire between the metal parts is only for the earth of the horn buton (as rubber does not conduct electricity, remember
)
I would suggest to cut the rubber from the coupler off with a angle grinder (be sure to wear eye protection
) It will most probably be too worn to be used again. Only cut the rubber part (the discs are easily replaceable - I bought a new one from Goldwagen two months ago), but be careful not to damage any metal parts. Cut it like a slice of polony, through the rivets. When fitting the new disk, you can simply bolt it together with high-tensile 8mm bolts and lock nuts.
If this is too much trouble, cut the steering shaft with the angle grinder at a suitable place, as you will most probably need to shorten it anyway for use in your buggy
Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 8:56 pm
by Hloni
Thanx pine. Last checked-in thesamba late aftrnoon. Seems like polony slicing is the order of the day.
Since l am building a lwb, would l still need to chop steering shaft? l had this vision of just simply plonking fg on pan and off l go.
Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 10:03 pm
by Pine
Hloni wrote:Since l am building a lwb, would l still need to chop steering shaft? l had this vision of just simply plonking fg on pan and off l go.
The difference between a lwb and swb is towards the rear (the area behind the seat rails), the front part is exactly the same. Show a pic of the bodyshell you got?
Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 3:12 am
by AirPower
I don't follow why you need to cut the rubber coupling - if you loosen either the top or bottom clamp bolts it just slides off the shaft?
I've done this many times, so mine comes off easily. In the beginning I've had to hammer it a bit on the bottom of that colapsible part and wedge it open to get it off.
Oh, and you need to remove the two bolts that tie the steering assembly to the body - they are inside just above the fusebox. Also remember to unplug the ignition wires. Then the whole assembly should slide off the shaft and out of the car.
May God grant you patience and not strength!
Best
Mario
Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 9:56 am
by Dawie
Guess that, on later models the collapsible safety column of the steering shaft catches on the body, preventing it to move away from the steering box.
If no angle grinder available, one could, with plenty of patience, (not much room for movement), maybe try using a hacksaw to cut through 2 opposing bolts by slicing through the rubber part. Otherwise, cut the body part that prevents the collapsible safety column to move away from the steering box. (Assuming the body is scrap). Then, if the round clamp is loose, turn the steering wheel to help loosen the clamp (from years of rust there). Then pull shaft away from steering box.
Re: Projekt ohne namen
Posted: Tue May 24, 2011 10:47 am
by Ron&Gill
Still don't know why cutting is advised. AFAIK, you undo the top C-clamp and the two bolts under the dash and the whole column comes out by pulling on the steering wheel. Don't forget to undo the wiring because the stalk switches and key switch come out too. The C-clamp might be a bit tight, but the column does not snag the body, it comes out in one.
