1600 mild street engine buildup

[Tony Z]

in my opinion, if you are going to use a stock crank and limit it to 5000rpm, then I wouldnt bother balancing anything. VW balanced their bits to a (shitty) tolerance, but their engines have survived plenty years.
If you want to make the engine run smoother, balance the pistons and conrods. But the speeds you want to turn, you are wasting money on the crank.

[Edmond]

Thanks for clearing that up Tony Z it will save me R650 if I dont get the crank balanced, the conrods I got from Dave came balanced already and he said he could balance the pistons for me so thats sorted then.

[dubster]

O ok...but wouldnt a 1835cc be nice aswell?for daily driving?search wentzel and just give him a pm...maybe he'll et them go for cheap...use dont use it...he offerd me them but didnt mention a price,seriously what can it hurt??anyway watching carefully to see what you do so i can follow suite, any pics of that filter setup yet?later edmond

[dubster]

Hey R650 closer to a 1835cc!nuge nuge wink wink...lol

(ps.sorry if it looks like it seems im trying to rub the 92 thing of on you,im not,im just scheming if you can score them......if not,why not?)

[Edmond]

Hey Dubster thanks for the lead on those 92's I have pm'd him will let you know what he says.
Im not a big fan of the 92's heard a lot of hate speech about them due to their thin walls but a lot of people seem to run them without problems
thats why I wanted 90.5's same wall thickness as 1600 sleeves but will see what happens.
If I do go 1835 will get a c/w crank and a 110 grind cam then
I haven't forgotten about the pics of the filter setup

[Edmond]

Dubster here are the pics of the oil filter setup

[dubster]

Thanx alot edmond!what exactly do you need to do it?that oilpump coverplate with the oulet,the case taped for the return pipe,the adpater for the filter and a filter and pipes?

[Tony Z]

Dude, I hope thats proper oil hose.

[Edmond]

TonyZ its proper oil hose can withstand high temps and 300psi pressure got the hose and fittings from Hyflo.
Ive had the hose on the car for almost 9 years never had problems or leaks despite it being pushlok hose
Dubster what you mentioned is all you need its really simple.
The oil pump cover plate and filter adapter ive got is Dave Ingle DICE items its really good quality stuff dont know if theyre still
available though

[Rabid_ant]

Running the same on the Speedster and it really is that simple. The beauty is adding a external oil cooler, just a couple of pipes and you're on your way. I'll be adding this shortly into the setup!! As far as i know, Dave R. can sort the cover plate. If you need a blank, let me know, i might have one on my spare casing!!

[Edmond]

DaveR says my heads should be ready by the end of this week will pay him a visit tomorrow
also got to get a few more goodies from him
I emailed DaveR the other day about the 92mm sleeve kit and he says I should stay away the cylinder walls are too thin on them and they dont last so will stay with the 1600 displacement

[fig]

IMO, regardless of how high you want to rev your engine, a counterweighted crank and dynamically balanced engine will pay for themselves in increased engine life. Also, if you build the bottom end right, then you can upgrade the engine spec later by working only on displacement, heads and valve train, without having to split the case again.

My 63 Dormobile is powered by a stock, balanced 1600TP with CW crank. It runs smoother, cooler and feels more powerful than any of my unbalanced engines. I don't think I'll ever build another type1 engine without a CW crank and balancing.

[Edmond]

I can still go the CW crank route as this motor buildup is still in the parts collecting phase will chat to DaveR
about the CW crank and see whay he can do for me I think he said the CW cranks are R1400 with balancing
its a bit out of my budget but maybe I can sort something out

[Edmond]

There was a problem with one of the the valve seats in the heads so they will only be ready next week wasn't DaveR's fault though while he's doing the heads Im having him fit single hd springs as well as sorting out the broken exhaust studs, in total its going to cost R1040 for redoing the heads and thats including new guides installed,seats recut,studs and plug threads repaired, 2 exhaust valves and the single hd springs, I supplied the new valves except for the 2 exhaust ones
Going to get the crank gears,cylinder studs and a set of s/h barrels from volksie world today might get the main and con rod bearings from masterparts if I have time

[Edmond]

I got the crank gears,cylinder studs and a std set of sleeves and pistons on saturday
Will get DaveR to check out the sleeves and pistons
also got the conrod and main bearings too but the mains have a +1 flange I
need a set with a +2 flange on the No1 bearing 030 thou on the crank and
40 thou on the casing