Aircooled VW South Africa

Good luck with this one Chris.

So the SC is aircooled again....good luck and make sure you check it regularly when traveling to make sure it's staying cooler. Did you clear all the cooling vents out?

Tom Bishop wrote:Chris, Your problem may be you are riding your revs to Low.

Tom, please elaborate on this a bit. It's not the first time that I've heard the suggestion to give the AC boxer engines a bit of revs. Is it all about moving more volumes of air over them cooling fins?

EtienneB wrote:

Tom Bishop wrote:Chris, Your problem may be you are riding your revs to Low.

Tom, please elaborate on this a bit. It's not the first time that I've heard the suggestion to give the AC boxer engines a bit of revs. Is it all about moving more volumes of air over them cooling fins?

Tell us more Tom...

Congrats Chris

Some previous owner closed some of your vehicle's air intake louvres on the rear lefthand side, (maybe during a previous accident-repair?). Can be seen clearly on your page 3.

If it's filled with putty it may be easy to open again?

Once i found my cylinderhead temp gauge climbing fast, for no apparent reason. Stopped ,and there was a plastic bag partly sucked over the air intake below the oval beetle's rear window.

Glad to see you dont give up!

Where can I find a heat gauge?

Im sure autozone or a place like that will have them.

They don't,I've checked.

Couldn't you modify this to help:

http://www.autostyle.co.za/prodview.php?prod_id=12063

or for more accurate (hopefully) oil temps:

http://www.autostyle.co.za/prodview.php?prod_id=12354

Most people just fits a VDO oil temperature gauge. It is marked up to 150 deg.C.
The thermistor-type sending unit goes in the metal sump plate, or you get a special oil pressure relief valve cover that is drilled and tapped for a sender.Some older cases has a blank plug at the righthand rear that can be used.

A special dipstick with built in sender was also available, but it had wires coming from it, that could find it's way into the fanbelt. There will be small differences in readings depending on where the sender is situated, but it will show you when something is badly wrong.

One can also use a cylinder head temp gauge. Problem is the sending unit,(in this case a thermocouple), fits under the sparkplug. It is a ring that replaces the sparkplug washer. Thermocouples has hot and cold junctions, and unlike thermistors needs compensation to be accurate. The Vdo CHT gauges meant for thermocouples dont have built in compensation. They are universal types,( also used on 2-stroke racing engines),marked to 300 deg.C, (way to high).

I use a special VDO CHT-gauge that use a thermistor-sender,(like normal oil- and water-temp gauges.) It was specially designed for Deutz aircooled diesel engines. Reads up to 200deg.C, and the scale is wide. Have a sender on each head, with a switch. Sender is VERY difficult to mount. Fitted them at the bottom of head, very close to the combustion chamber part of the head. Had to make small adapter blocks for senders. But this is a bit complicated and took plenty of time.

Oil temp gauge takes longer to show a change. CHT-gauge shows temp changes faster.

The second link to Autostyle (150deg) type should work, depending on the sender that comes with it. Dont know the quality, have'nt seen it. Good that it has a wide scale.

The first link is for exhaust gas temp, wich reads much higher.

Thanks guys.

I found this aircraft supply place that has a lot of CHT gauges
http://www.cometaviationsupplies.co.za/ ... 0Non%20TSO