Aircooled VW South Africa

I must be too used to modern disk brakes. After adjusting the brakes, checking for leaks and checking brake fluid levels, they still don't inspire me with confidence, that said, I would not call myself a brake expert, so it is quite possible that the drums need skimming and that new shoes are required. Will investigate and heed your advise to get everything 100%, and only then make the call. If they can stand up to a couple of Cape Passes then surely they cannot be all bad

Would new brake shoes be available off the shelf, or are we looking at having them rebonded, if so, where ?

karmakoma wrote:I must be too used to modern disk brakes. After adjusting the brakes, checking for leaks and checking brake fluid levels, they still don't inspire me with confidence, that said, I would not call myself a brake expert, so it is quite possible that the drums need skimming and that new shoes are required. Will investigate and heed your advise to get everything 100%, and only then make the call. If they can stand up to a couple of Cape Passes then surely they cannot be all bad

Would new brake shoes be available off the shelf, or are we looking at having them rebonded, if so, where ?

I've never bought new shoes in my life. Any brake & clutch place can reshoe them and skim the drums; I just use my local in Fietas. Don't skim if not necessary, and have the new shoes radiused to the drum diameter. You're welcome to come around and drive one of my buses to feel the brakes.

How to waste an afternoon (or two)

Try and find long wheels bolts to fit Empi 5's (which I am now starting to believe might be American Eagles, same thing, just different company) on a BUS!!
It's like mission impossible. The bus has a 14mm wheel bolt, (Unlike a beetles 12mm).
No-one has, and I have been to several midas, autozone, tiger wheel and tyre, 3 other mag wheel/car accessory places, JKM industrial bolt and nut suppliers. Local hardware, 2 x builders warehouses, even took a chance on GAME etc etc AD NAUSEAM. NO CHANCE.

Found a few long 12mm bolt's, but not the elusive 14mm. SO, question is, WHO has long (as in at least 40mm threaded part) 14mm wheel bolts for me, pretty please? Should look like these if I am not mistaken:

On the subject of bolts, since I want to fit seatbelts to the fleetline, and a few new mounting points will have to be drilled, figured I better get the required lock nuts that fit the seatbelt bolts as well for these. They look like M12, but with a finer thread... You cannot describe a FINE thread vs a COARSE thread to a builders warehouse bolt and nut counter assistant telephonically, you will drive there and be disappointed. I should have done better research though. Checked at all the abovementioned places, went to JKM LAST, turns out the seatbelt bolts are an imperial size. At least they had these for me!

But, I could not end the day without completing SOMETHING at least. So when I got home, sat and watched some cricket and "massaged" these to fit the bus . Came out ok I think, even if it was a little challenging to fit.



All is well that ends well Now if I could only find those bloody bolts

I found mine at a place here in PE called SpeedyQuip.

Will go look if they have more.

love the eyelids!

The eye lids look awesome! I know what you mean about "massaged" them to fit. I had to give mine a bit of manipulation to fit the Beetle ie. the top edge of the light. Yours must have taken a fair bit of work. Job well done.

karmakoma wrote:... Try and find long wheels bolts to fit Empi 5's (which I am now starting to believe might be American Eagles, same thing, just different company) on a BUS!!
It's like mission impossible. The bus has a 14mm wheel bolt, (Unlike a beetles 12mm).
No-one has, and I have been to several midas, autozone, tiger wheel and tyre, 3 other mag wheel/car accessory places, JKM industrial bolt and nut suppliers. Local hardware, 2 x builders warehouses, even took a chance on GAME etc etc AD NAUSEAM. NO CHANCE.

Found a few long 12mm bolt's, but not the elusive 14mm. SO, question is, WHO has long (as in at least 40mm threaded part) 14mm wheel bolts for me, pretty please? Should look like these if I am not mistaken:

My American Eagle Empi 5 lookalikes don't take normal wheel bolts. The holes are about 20mm and the first part of the bolt is unthreaded and a tight fit in the hole, with only the lower part threaded. I only have Beetle 12mm bolts for mine. I think I will have to have a set machined or, if that's too pricey, see if I can import a set from the US.

What is the diameter of your bolt holes?

What fig said.

I had to have studs pressed into my drums.The Lugs fit tightly in the rim to prevent it from moving.

fig wrote: My American Eagle Empi 5 lookalikes don't take normal wheel bolts. The holes are about 20mm and the first part of the bolt is unthreaded and a tight fit in the hole, with only the lower part threaded. I only have Beetle 12mm bolts for mine. I think I will have to have a set machined or, if that's too pricey, see if I can import a set from the US.

What is the diameter of your bolt holes?

I made up a set for mine. Exact same wheels. Used high tensile hex head bolts, turned the ends down to the correct shaft size and had thread cut onto that section. cant remember costs though, was 4 years ago or so.used hard plastic spacers inside each of the holes to give the snug fit. also had them plated and got caps for them from skiffy but lost a cap or two and skiffy moved (bastards), Still need to track them down in joburg...

Another thought I've had is to get a press-fit steel insert made, chamfered on the outside edge, to take a normal long 14mm wheel bolt. I think I favour this approach because I reckon the soft material of the wheel will wear quickly with regular removal and retightening of wheels. The ID of the wheel holes is already burred slightly from the aluminium bonding to the steel of the wheel bolts.

You all have it quite right...

The regular bolts won't work. Found a 14mm LONG 42mm bolt today, wrong "shoulder" though, will damage the rim, I am sure I have american eagles then, as the bolt hole is probably also about 20mm...

Those 12mm beetle bolts you mention Fig sounds great, Empi makes a nice set of stud inserts with a LUG which works perfectly, but alas, it is also 12mm. Maybe I should just fit the mags on the beetle

After visiting another 5 places (Rand bolt and nut, autoquip, VW ,went through almost the entire catalogue, HONDA, they were next to the vw dealership , IS motorsport) only found the above incorrect bolt....

STRONGLY considered a tensile steel hex bolt, but as you mention James, that would require an insert, plating or a cap, and probably machining as well. So decided to be a little bit more patient, something is bound to turn up.

Fig, that insert sounds like a plan, maybe I should have some machined?
Chris, where did you have your inserts done, as that might be the easiest option at this stage, unless I can find something online ? Thanks Guys for your input!

I bought the bolts at Mr Screw and pressed it at a engineering shop.

A little more progress today.

We cleaned the fleetline from top to bottom, inside and out (except the engine). She does not look much different, so no use posting a pic. No more loose junk, pieces of rope, home made curtain rail etc anywhere anymore.

I can now see the full extent of the rust damage... little bit more than I thought, but nothing terminal. Window frames, roof corners, and around the front, roof fresh air intake vents. Cargo floor and doors also need a spot of welding, but, this patient was caught in time. From what I can see the PO had applied some rust inhibitor at a stage, so things will be fine till its time for bodywork on ffff. Was also pleasantly surprised to see all the rooflining metal wires and tabs are in the bus and complete from what I can see. Will make fitting a new roofliner a walk in the park

Fitted the seatbelts today. Was easier than I thought it would be The fleetline has factory mount points for over the shoulder belts, on the B pillar, and on the cab floor behind the front seats, that made the job a lot easier.

Thank you to FIG for advice and example pics, this also helped a lot! Always easier to ask someone who has done it before, owe you a

Shall I bore you with the steps involved ?

I started by installing the stocks first. One for the driver side and one for the passenger side, leaving the two middle mounting points open for a future lap belt install. Next was the B-Pillar, bolts right on, and this kept the belts steady so I could mark the spots to be drilled.

You want what? Oh yes, pictures .

B-Pillar:



Started drilling with a small "titanium" drill bit, and it was scary how that bit went through the metal like a hot knife through butter. No need for pilot holes then, straight to the 10mm bit. Drilled one hole through the bulkhead to mount the inertia reel, and one hole just to the right of the seat, for the other anchor point. The seatbelts came with a spring washer, washer, and a plastic circlip to keep them in place pre-installed. Only thing I had to add was a BIG, THICK square washer (to help spread the load) behind the bulkhead and under the floor, and a locknut. The inertia reel portion of the belt has a small standoff to help keep it in position and this also required a small hole to be drilled.

In the fleetlines, there is a strange metal bracket just to the right of the driver seatback, which I noticed Fig had used to mount his fire extinguisher to. Looks like it was made for that purpose, so I did the same. The one hole is factory, just had to drill one more.

Floor mount points, you will see the bracket I mentioned on the right.



Then for the passenger side:



Assemble and test:





At least now the ratline is safe(r)

Need to make a plan with those wheels now, get the roadworthy done, and then work on the fleety will be paused for bit.
There is a notch to finish first! One project at a time and all that.

Although, seeing it standing there everyday, you never know what a man might get up to if he is bored....

On the subject of seatbelts, in case I have not mentioned this before:

When it comes to safety critical items, only new good quality will do imho.

So I shopped around, and seatbelts are not cheap! Buying el cheapo no name brand seatbelts or secondhand ones were not an option. Fortunately I remembered that a guy who did some work on one of my previous beetles, mentioned he used Nissan Champ seatbelts. Spoke to the Nissan garage close to me, and original brand new nissan champ belts from the dealer were cheaper than autozone and one or two other places I tried. I also liked the fact that everything is included, bolts, washers, plastic caps to neaten everything etc. You also have a choice of the long cable stock (which were perfect for the bus) or the material stock. About a week after I bought them, midas ran a huge special on seatbelts, went to check for the hell of it, but no stock anywere, found only one, so didn't bother. Use it, don't use it.

Nice going riaan, the seatbelts look great. i cant imagine a better place for the fire extinguisher.