Aircooled VW South Africa

OK
yesterday we stripped her down to bolts nuts .. case split open
the small main near the pulley was the culprit,
Everything looks clean well lubed , so we checked the crank and there is a taper of just under a thou... on the small main side..of the crank just before the lock ring..
The engineering was a tad off..
This caused the small bearing to grip, as the motor got to running temp..
we will sort the crank out and add new front bearing. .. and then mic every thing ..To check the correct clearances.. ..
The rest looks good and well lubed, no oil leaks were present ... A thou Off on the end of the crank just before the lock ring... was all it took to seize the bug...
I learnt to check every detail from this experience, and not just trust that things are right even if they look and feel right..
Lucky it was at idle and happened at "home"...
Sorry forgot to take a pic... but with the eye the crank looks 100%..even the bearing was smooth when we fitted it...rolled nicely..when we closed the case..
The bearing didn't hurt the crank either .. luckily.. but moved the dowel as she locked..

Well tomorrow I will get a bearing if possible or a set and ..sort the crank taper ..then slowly measure and assemble everything..
Just afoot note..
We lube the engine with Gear oil and assembly lube by Wynns... to make sure everything is slippery then add oil aswell as we go, through the assembly,
we just did not mic the crank ... thinking it was a new one from the engineers and should be right... Our error and the engineers but since we assembled ....
... its our error... One I won't make again ..

bolt the case back together and check what the measurement is on the case where it seized (without bearing installed)

Will do, ...cheers

Told you so my money is still on that channel being blocked though. Crank could be bent as well. Drill out the plug for that channel,tap to 8mm and plug it with a allen set screw m8 x 8mm long
I personally dont use wynns bad seize experience using it almost ruined my inebore machine. I religeosly use vaseline on all bearings have been doing so for at least 25 years. I use a dab of cv grease on the lifters for added protection where there is steel on steel pack the oil pump as well
How to repair that dowel hole. Since the small bearing isnt under much strain use loctite retaining compound. If the damage is severe ( you did force that seized engine didnt you) you need to sleeve the hole an old pushrod makes a very nice bush drill hole oversize then install bush and dowel inside obviously this is higher grade work
What size bearing do you need

Every casing I have used for an engine build always has the small No4 bearing oilway blocked, I think its the stepped plug the factory uses that allows crud to block it up.
Have always done mine the same way as Impi using a M8 Short Grub Screw

Hi,
will be cleaning and rechecking the case,making sure all galleries are open etc... measuring for clearances etc..
I have a bearing it's 50 , 50 ... had a spare anyway
we stripped down the crank and checked sizes ... and will be making sure its properly clean and lubed for assembly...

Quick update
sub assembly at Engineering as we were not happy with clearances on Mains,
seems the bearings or mains on the crank were not correct... so engineers said they prefer to assemble and check to ensure it will not seize again...

Such a nice project, keep the faith, i'm sure it will all work out fine.
Are you planning on changing the bodywork? Colour etc, if you are, I might be able to help with advice. Let me know

Eventually my Dad and I got her motor in today and wired her up connecting all the bits etc...
She ran and sounded good again, we set the carb.. Set the timing
Tomorrow we hit the road, for the first run with her 3rd motor overhaul...
I put 3Lt of oil in her ..dip stick still not at full line,
is this normal? or could the dip stick be off, I have 2 and both have the marks in the same place??????

VW0007 wrote:........
I put 3Lt of oil in her ..dip stick still not at full line,
is this normal? or could the dip stick be off, I have 2 and both have the marks in the same place??????

I have always be-leaved that the type 1 engine should take 2.5 lt of oil to the full mark when standing on a flat surface.

Maybe others could offer their opinion.

Herman

I thought so too...

Got everything connected , fitted a custom oil catcher, have her running sweetly,
BUT..
As we were about to take her for a run yesterday. .
The clutch cable froze.......
Took the wing nut off and removed the ...sleeve and found the issue..
sometime in the past the inner tube (sleeve or steel tube in the tunnel) had been cut and joined
but the butcher who did this had cut the ends with 4 cuts to shrink one end and force the two ends into one another
The cable has now cut a groove in the pipe ends... this then grabbed the cable .....
Now I need to sort the sleeve (tube) out .. can anyone offer advice,
I will check if I can buy a un bullied tube and properly join the two.. without the tube the clutch cable does not have adequate bend in it which will cause shudders

it never ends...
I snapped the hook on my clutch pedal on my first test drive with the new gearbox the night before leaving for the George show... so I know your pain
Good luck, glad you got the engine running

Thanks Tony
The carb is really great, after the issues had trying to balance those twins

The engine---Engineers had cut the crank wrong and did the engine (crank and assemly of bottom ) as a come back. . Now it runs like a dream..
I welded that hook (made it thicker and heat treated the hook) as these wear and snap when least expect...
I am enjoying the bug .. it's a challenge .. and each fix makes me want to keep her and never sell her ... by the time we are finished she will be 100%..
I just wish the "errors" needing work were more visible and in "your " face