Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Disable your ad blocker to continue using our website.
Well basically this is the things i did:
2l CJ case type iv engine with standard solex duals...
You do not need to cut the bay of the car but i needed to trip some of the cooling tin that surrounds the engine. I use the oil-bath aircleaner... I've seen ppl use the flat pancake filters but i still like to use the cold air inlet so that is connected. I used the shorter inlet manifolds from the 411/412 variant i think as the bus ones are too high. this will mean you have to lengthen your throttle pull bar... i just welded a extra piece in.
Cooling... i used the fan shroud adapter froma 411/412 variant that bolts on in the place of the screen in front of the cooling fan(its made from plastic).Used the standard type 3 bellows but they need to be made to fit on the fan side of the boot as it is too big.
You will need to get a electric fuel pump and propably a regulator as you will have to remove the stock pump and blank off the hole(stock won't clear the tranny) The part that gave me the most headaches was the clutch..... You can use a type 2 clutch up to 215mm depending on what model (guide tube, collar etc. ) tranny you have. Because i have a early type tranny (without guide), I am using a 1600 type 2 clutch with a pressure plate(with collar). You will also need to have the needle bearing in the crank taken out. This you have to relocate to the flywheel (type 2 gearbox input shaft is longer). Do this by having the hole machined to size and press-fitting the bearing. I also used the shortened rear engine support bar and welded mounts onto the area close to the bumper mounting points... this is essential for smooth gearselection and to minimise wear on the gearbox input shaft and shaft seal.
My car is a swing axle but i reckon with IRS the difference is just in the support structure... make sure of that. Also I converted points ignition to the OEM Electronic ignition of a 1900 carb waterboxer.... one of the best upgrades that you can do. So much more accurate and smooth throught the whole rpm range...
I dont know if I missed anything... YOu can ask me more spesific questions if you need to .... I'll also post some pictures later on.....
Take note my car is my primary car.... i drive it every day.... the things i do will never win shows but it has taken me 25000 miles already Very Happy
As taken from TheSamba I think that it was Eben who wrote it
Last edited by Blitzkrieg on Fri Nov 16, 2007 11:17 am, edited 2 times in total.
Yup. I've been phoning around for 210/215mm pressure plates, but like no one has
You can use a normal Beetle 200mm clutch disk with the above.
I have 228mm parts, but I really don't want to clearance the bellhousing. Suppose that I will have to do it as a last resort if I can't source a 411 flywheel.
Blitzkrieg_Beetle wrote:Yup. I've been phoning around for 210/215mm pressure plates, but like no one has
You can use a normal Beetle 200mm clutch disk with the above.
I have 228mm parts, but I really don't want to clearance the bellhousing. Suppose that I will have to do it as a last resort if I can't source a 411 flywheel.
But its like I told you those things are super scares and the amount that you need to clearance in the bell housing are very minimal indeed when using the 228mm set up
Adapterplates Available for Rotary in Beetle and others aswell
And Special Boxes built for Rotary Conversions and Scubies
Pierre
082 600 8663
CLick on Banner Below to be routed to the Web site
I agree with Bugger. I had to grind out very little of the bellhousing when I fitted my WBX in the beetle. Used the WBX clutch and press plate. No problems.
The only substitute for cubic inches are more cubic inches.
beetlefanatic wrote:I agree with Bugger. I had to grind out very little of the bellhousing when I fitted my WBX in the beetle. Used the WBX clutch and press plate. No problems.
Did you have to convert your clutch fork to the later type? What about the release bearing sliding tube?
After sitting down and thinking about this,I have decided on the following...
I'm going to try to source a 411 flywheel. If I can get one of those, then I'll buy the correct clutch assembly from Hubcap and use that. If I can't find a 411 flywheel, then I'll use the 228mm version, of which I already have the clutch assembly for.
beetlefanatic wrote:I agree with Bugger. I had to grind out very little of the bellhousing when I fitted my WBX in the beetle. Used the WBX clutch and press plate. No problems.
Did you have to convert your clutch fork to the later type? What about the release bearing sliding tube?
Mine was a '76 Beetle. So I kept everything else standard. Just had to grind the bellhousing a bit in 4 spots where the flywheel touched. Nice and easy conversion.
The only substitute for cubic inches are more cubic inches.
I think that it was Eben who wrote it 
