The best automatic fire suppression system EVER?

[fig]

Every ACVW (and Ford Kuga) needs this (sorry, I haven't worked out how to embed videos):

https://youtu.be/G0g0mW-hZmU

Visit http://www.blazecut.co.za/ for more info.

If anyone is interested in installing one of these in your ACVW, I can get them at discounted rates. PM me if interested.

Unlike halon and dry powder fire extinguishers, Blazecut is claimed to be non-corrosive. The plastic tube contains a special gas that explodes on contact with air, violently blowing out the fire and consuming all the oxygen in the vicinity in the process. The process is triggered when the fire burns through the plastic tube.

And it's super simple to install: just cable tie it in place above the main fire risk areas. They come in sizes to fit all applications, including ACVWs.

There will also be stock of Blazecut for sale at the Kaapse kombi Kult kamp-out next month.

[splitbusahollic]

I'm not sure what happens when the "once off" gas explosion gets sucked out through the air vents of your engine compartment after it ignited whilst you are traveling....the engine block at this stage is still extremely hot from the initial fire that started and running temptreture and the fuel is still being pumped on to the electronics ( as per the initial cause of the fire) and you are presumably still traveling at speed unaware that you have a fire in the engine compartment.

i would rather have a automated 1.5KG dry powder tried and tested system which is widely used in Underground equipment, ships, buses and various other applications in my bus than a quick gas exploding system that operates "once off".
Regarding the dry powder corrosion, you can pressure wash your engine afterwards as it will have fire damage in any case and needs cleaning.

This system continues to extinguish the fire whilst you are still traveling at speed and the "conditions" for the fire are still in place in your engine compartment. It allows you time to stop and also gives adequate warning signs with white powder clouds billowing from your air vents whilst you are blissfully driving along unaware of the problem at hand while the unit is still doing what it is supposed to do..extinguish the fire !!.

We had these units specially made up in smaller than industrial sizes (1.5 Kg units) and fit them to all our restorations and offer them for sale through our shop.They cost R 1750 per unit or R2150 fitted. It comes complete with mounting bracket, quick release clips, fire extinguisher, special tube that runs over the entire engine and battery area. This tube pops in multiple places and becomes like a sprinkler system inside your engine compartment wherever the fire hits it.

i have only seen the Blaze cut tested in a stationary position not in a moving vehicle at speed on a busy road.
all you have to do is have the unit which is removable) serviced like any other fire extinguisher once a year.

So to answer Your question Fig, if blaze cut is the best fire suppression system ever,i don't think so, otherwise it would be in all the boats, buses and underground machinery etc ....just my 2c worth......

[didi]

I wouldn't mind to have a halon / BCF (Bromochlorodifluoromethane) extinguisher handy. It is the most effective extinguisher that I've ever used, but now days you only find them in aircrafts. The gas is low in toxicity and is non conductive so good for electrical fires.

[fig]

Having fought a fuel fire in the engine bay with 2x 1.5kg handheld dry powder extinguishers I have first-hand experience of what you're talking about Jacques. Yes, the powder put the fire out ... twice ... and yes, the fresh fuel gravity feeding onto the very hot engine block reignited, both times, so the dry powder was of no use except to get into the body seams and cause corrosion. The bus is still rusting in the seams 25 years later, despite a thorough pressure wash after the fire and many subsequent pressure washes. The only reason I still have that bus (1963 Dormobile) is that I was yelling "FIRE! FIRE! FIRE" continuously from the moment I noticed the car was alight. We were saved by hosepipes (which just spread the burning fuel around, but cooled everything down), and a halon extinguisher, which finally doused all the flames. The fire brigade got there in less than 3 minutes and they would have been too late to save the bus.

The solution to the gravity feed problem can be solved with a cut-off solenoid at the base of the tank. Neither dry powder nor Halon nor BCF will solve that problem on their own.

The point with Blazecut is that it triggers long before things get hot enough to reignite any spilled fuel, which also minimises the damage. And I don't think you will be blissfully unaware of a fire after the Blazecut triggers; unless you're deaf and unconscious I suspect you'll notice an explosion in the engine compartment! Because the Blazecut gas consumes all the oxygen in the vicinity, there is a much lower chance of immediate reignition than with other fire suppressants. And no mess and no subsequent corrosion. Dry powder leaves the most unspeakable mess, not to mention it's corrosive.

Blazecut will cost about R3,000 (i'm still confirming prices), so I'm sure it won't affect sales of your "tried and tested" budget system, Jacques.

Here's another option and choice is good.

[fig]

I must say I got very excited when I saw this set-up and the video for the first time. It looks like I'm the only one.

Does anyone have any experience with this type of set-up?

[Teuneman]

Hi Guys

I understand that Beetles and Kombi's are prone to fire. Blazecut is a perfect product for Automatic Fire Suppression.

Bulwark Fire Projects also sell these at various portals:

https://www.facebook.com/pg/bulwarkfire/shop and
https://bulwark-fire-projects.myshopify.com

The Blazecut system doesn't really explode, imagine a 9kg propane cylinder, the gas is liquefied and if you open the valve the content expands into a gas. The same goes for Blazecut.

The Blazecut unit is filled with liquefied HFC-236fa. When the temperature rises to approx 120 degrees C, the liquid wants to become a gas. Wherever the heat is highest, the tube will melt and burst and the gas will be released. It then creates an inert environment in the engine bay or boot which prevents the fire from reigniting even if more fuel is introduced. Keep in mind that an engine bay or trunk is not 100% air tight and the inert environment will not last indefinitely.

HFC-236fa leaves absolutely NO residue.

The HFC-236fa gas does not remove the oxygen from the engine bay, it merely decreases the oxygen level to a percentage that will not sustain fire. The minimum extinguishing concentration of HFC-236fa is 5.9% for the 2m3 unit containing 0.5l of agent, the initial concentration will be about 11.6%. So more than enough gas for the volume. As the concentration oxygen is lowered the engine performance will go down. This is kind of like driving at higher altitudes. The % oxygen in air decreases the higher up you go. But this will only be temporary.

You can also buy the unit with a pressure switch which can be wired to a contactor that will disconnect the battery upon discharge. Which will then cut power to the fuel pump.

@splitbusahollic No single fire suppression/extinguishing system is perfect. At the very least, Blazecut gives you time switch off the car and get to your fire extinguisher should re-ignition occur.

You could argue that DPC fire extinguishers is most likely to be sufficient but consider that you have to open the hood, with a flammable liquid fire underneath, opening the hood can introduce more oxygen to the fire and flame up into your face/body. It does also leave residue which is terrible to clean up.

Refillable systems are crazy expensive that could cost in excess of R15k. The question is, is the risk of my vehicle catching fire high enough that paying R15k+ for refillable is justified, keeping in mind that the detection tube and agent to be replaced is hella expensive, not to mention annual servicing and hydrostatic testing of the cylinder every 10 years.

If you spend R10k on wheels, R5k on a fuel cell, R10k on a paint job etc, a R3400.00 "insurance policy" is not too bad.

[Terry Phillips]

Better solution just check a replace fuel lines regular and you should not have any fires.
There is the ball type that has a cage above the engine same thing when the flames heat the ball up it bursts and puts the fire out so they say.