Type 4 conversion
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Re: Type 4 conversion
I've use an angle grinder in the past - no problem, except for the bits of aluminium EVERYWHERE, between your teeth, in your hair etc. etc. Be sure to wear good eye protection. You should complete it in half an hour.
- Tom Bishop
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Re: Type 4 conversion
Ok, I am busy fitting a T4 motor to my buggy.
I got hold of a 215 flywheel and machined it out to take the spigot shaft bearing. When the flywheel is fitted the bearing sticks out 2mm on the clutch side. I still have the old bearing in the crank.
What now??
Must the original one be removed, allowing the one in the flywheel to sink in deeper and if this is the case must a spacer be fitted taking up the space where the original bearing sat.
If the old bearing must be removed, whats the best method, read about filling it with grease, screwing it out with a tap or making up a puller using a rawbolt. Any other you can recommend?
Or
Must it stick out the 2mm into the clutch side. Then I would need other bolts as the flanges on the bolts get in the way.
Thanks
I got hold of a 215 flywheel and machined it out to take the spigot shaft bearing. When the flywheel is fitted the bearing sticks out 2mm on the clutch side. I still have the old bearing in the crank.
What now??
Must the original one be removed, allowing the one in the flywheel to sink in deeper and if this is the case must a spacer be fitted taking up the space where the original bearing sat.
If the old bearing must be removed, whats the best method, read about filling it with grease, screwing it out with a tap or making up a puller using a rawbolt. Any other you can recommend?
Or
Must it stick out the 2mm into the clutch side. Then I would need other bolts as the flanges on the bolts get in the way.
Thanks
”Experience is what you get when you do not get what you want”
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Re: Type 4 conversion
HI Tom
I have run type 4`s numerous times in a bug box and never had to modify the flywheel for a bearing always used the crank mounted one
Just measuer the distance the spigot is stickking out of the bug box and then you measure back again from the back of the motor
The bearing in the crank is about flush with the end of the motor casing and the spigot stick out past the end of the gearbox casing they should mate up
In the past there was a sertain Passat bearing that had a piece of felt on one side used to buy that and used that better lubtication kept in side
The easiest is to use a rawlbolt or something similait to remove the inner bearing but you do not need to
What happend to the Scuby motor or is this a differant buggy
I have run type 4`s numerous times in a bug box and never had to modify the flywheel for a bearing always used the crank mounted one
Just measuer the distance the spigot is stickking out of the bug box and then you measure back again from the back of the motor
The bearing in the crank is about flush with the end of the motor casing and the spigot stick out past the end of the gearbox casing they should mate up
In the past there was a sertain Passat bearing that had a piece of felt on one side used to buy that and used that better lubtication kept in side
The easiest is to use a rawlbolt or something similait to remove the inner bearing but you do not need to
What happend to the Scuby motor or is this a differant buggy
- Tom Bishop
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Re: Type 4 conversion
Scoobs still there. Just want to finish the kubel. Then I will start on it.
My Son has taken over BigToe, my large Yellow Bug. I run 265 80 15 back and 245 80 15 front. The stock motor doesnt turn these large wheels over so well. Hopefully with this motor you will not have to slip the clutch at take off as much.
After the motor is fitted I want to fit a booster, once again the large front tyres need extra braking. Its got all round disks but I want the braking to be better.
My Son has taken over BigToe, my large Yellow Bug. I run 265 80 15 back and 245 80 15 front. The stock motor doesnt turn these large wheels over so well. Hopefully with this motor you will not have to slip the clutch at take off as much.
After the motor is fitted I want to fit a booster, once again the large front tyres need extra braking. Its got all round disks but I want the braking to be better.
”Experience is what you get when you do not get what you want”
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Re: Type 4 conversion
210 mm & 215 mm diameter, clutch kits, are readily available from Just Kampers in Great BritainBlitzkrieg wrote:Yup. I've been phoning around for 210/215mm pressure plates, but like no one has
You can use a normal Beetle 200mm clutch disk with the above.
I have 228mm parts, but I really don't want to clearance the bellhousing. Suppose that I will have to do it as a last resort if I can't source a 411 flywheel.
http://www.justkampers.com/shop/type_2_ ... lutch-kits
http://www.justkampers.com/shop/type_2_ ... 10133.html
http://www.justkampers.com/shop/type_2_ ... 10348.html
http://www.justkampers.com/shop/type_25 ... 10796.html
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Re: Type 4 conversion
By the time that shipping + duties are added up, it runs into crazy money.
But those kits are available here in SA. It just takes some asking around and checking out smaller spares shops, then you get lucky
But those kits are available here in SA. It just takes some asking around and checking out smaller spares shops, then you get lucky
If it's too low, you're too old